314 Congress Ave., 469-9369
Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight; Open 24 hours Fri & Sat; Sun ’til midnight.
 Momma’s Diner |
at Congress Avenue’s newest eatery, Momma’s Diner. Somebody’s family, though,
did provide inspiration for this retro-hip little place — ancestors with names
like Mabel, Maxine, Betty Roy, and Inez have been immortalized with namesake
entr�es such as Gasless Red Beans and Rice, Chicken Fried Steak, Grilled
Pork Chops, and Southwestern Chicken Spaghetti.
As the menu asserts, “Momma’s cookin’ is so good you won’t gain an ounce…
’til you swallow. After having downed a heaping (although I ordered the
“small”) plate of Theora’s Mac N’ Cheese (small $5.25/large $7.00), I can
attest that once swallowed, Momma’s thick comfort food traveled straight to my
ribs, where it stuck for good. The Mac N’ Cheese lacked a pronounced cheese
flavor, but its texture was right on target — creamy and soft. Annie Lee’s
Chicken Fried Chicken ($6.25 small/$7.50 large) was a tooth-tender whole breast
as promised, coated thickly with a flaky golden batter. The chicken would have
been better if fried a little crispier, although it remained pleasingly moist,
thick, and hearty.
Dinners at Momma’s come with generous side orders such as mashed potatoes with
gravy, steamed broccoli, creamed carrots, and buttered corn. The potatoes that
accompanied my chicken dinner tended more toward the pur�ed than the
mashed, but the peppery cream gravy proved thick enough to stand alone. If
you’re of the ilk that believes sugar makes vegetables more palatable, Pappaw’s
Favorite Creamed Carrots is the side order for you. The more health-oriented
will be pleased with the crisp steamed broccoli. And, health-conscious or not,
the green beans glistening with bacon drippings are tough to pass up.
Incidentally, Momma’s does feature three “Gym Bunny” offerings — two grilled
chicken possibilities and an egg white omelet.
Late-nighters (Momma’s is open 24 hours on weekends) like to slip up to the
restaurant’s long wooden bar and sup on breakfast foods or desserts, the latter
a changing selection that might include a spicy, nutty carrot cake with a rich
cream cheese frosting or a cheesecake topped with a dollop of whipped cream and
artfully arranged hazelnuts that looks a little too “dressed up” for these
humble, homey surroundings.
— Rebecca Chastenet de G�ry
This article appears in February 21 • 1997 and February 21 • 1997 (Cover).