Foods of the Maya: A Taste of the Yucatán

by Nancy & Jeffrey Gerlach

University of New Mexico Press, 128 pp., $13.95 (paper) The cuisine of the Yucatán peninsula is very different from what most Westerners think of as Mexican food. Its tropical, unique flavors result from the balance between regional ingredients used by the Maya since pre-Columbian times: achiote (annato seed paste), pumpkin seeds, chiles, epazote, and chaya leaves; as well as exotic ingredients introduced through the spice trade: cinnamon, cloves, allspice, vinegar, Seville oranges, and plantains. I usually complain that its rich, delicious dishes are largely missing from Austin restaurants, with a few exceptions. Therefore, whenever I go back home to Mexico City, a visit to the neighborhood Yucatecan restaurant, my favorite since childhood, is de rigueur.

As is the case with most people who visit the Yucatán peninsula, Nancy and Jeffrey Gerlach fell in love with this beautiful area for its magnificent history, vibrant culture, and wonderfully different food. They have succeeded in sharing this love with the rest of the world through their book Foods of the Maya. Upon reading it, I found myself yearning for a stroll in downtown Mérida, or a lazy afternoon in a hammock somewhere along the Caribbean coast. It begins with an introduction to the area, some history, and the authors’ own traveling anecdotes and advice for future visitors, followed by recipes for some of the most popular and traditional dishes from the three states that comprise the Yucatán: Campeche, Yucatán, and Quintana Roo. The recipes include salsas, appetizers, soups, various meats, seafood, vegetables, desserts, and drinks, and are easy to follow — even for people who have never experienced Yucatecan cuisine — while producing authentic results.

One of the ancient methods of cooking in the Yucatán is baking in an earth oven, or pib. The Gerlachs have adapted many pib recipes to the conventional oven, or better yet, the grill, as is the case of the classic pescado en Tikin-Xic (fish in achiote marinade, wrapped in banana leaves). The cochinita pibil — tender pork chunks marinated in bitter orange juice and achiote paste — tasted genuine and was easy to reproduce. The Yucatecan shrimp cocktail offers a unique twist on the popular favorite, excellent for a summer afternoon with cocktails or beer. And the salpicón de venado, or shredded venison salad, is a perfect summer entrée that can easily be made with left-over beef. For those who have visited the area, this book will bring back fond memories of wonderful food and destinations. For those who haven’t, it’s a great introduction to one of the most intriguing and amazing parts of Mexico, and a fabulous culinary adventure for all.

This article appears in July 19 • 2002.

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Mexico City native Claudia Alarcón has made Austin home since 1984. She worked her way through college in the local restaurant industry, graduating from the University of Texas in 1999. She has been a Chronicle contributor for 15 years and presents lectures and workshops on topics related to the foodways of Mexico, both locally and internationally.