When running down the list of options for lunch, Italian food doesn’t often make my cut. While I adore the flavors, it’s a dinner-only affair because my American brain associates the cuisine with a carb-induced coma. But real Italian fare is fresh, seasonal, and loaded with vegetables and herbs. After a recent visit to a local Downtown restaurant, I was inspired to find a way to spotlight impressive dishes.
To kick off The Dish, we’re highlighting Italic, an Italian restaurant helmed by chef Andrew Curren of ELM Restaurant Group, because the lunch menu has wedged itself in my mind. Shaved brussels sprouts salad is not a revolutionary dish, but here at Italic – with its wonderful balance of Parmigiano, walnuts, lemon, olive oil, and herbs – it’s exactly what I want to eat. The cut, the portion, the flavor – it’s excellent. The shrimp risotto, flecked with sweet corn, drizzled with chili oil, is a lovely accompanying entrée (although if you ate the whole bowl you’d be back to the whole coma issue). Like the salad, the space is bright, with a modern design accented in yellow. And yes, they’ve got great pizzas, too.
The Dish
A version of this article appeared in print on Sep 7, 2018 with the headline: The Dish
This article appears in September 7 • 2018.