Meat
Departments at the new Whole Foods are called “villages,” and this meat village is more metropolis than small burg. The array of butchered cuts and meats in all formats is impressive. Starting from the south end of the case are 35 different made-in-house sausages of medium grind and varying flavors, with many more available from other suppliers. Across from sausage land is a kiosk with eight assorted chiles and stews for quart or pint takeout, and west of that, another counter holding an average of 40 to 50 different marinated, prestuffed, and/or preseasoned selections, like a delectable-looking spinach and feta stuffed flank roll, $12.99 per pound. On the north end of that counter adjoins the hot section of cooked barbecue, pulled pork, sausage, and chickens for sale by the pound or in sandwich form, with packaged meats farther north (blue cheese burger patties!).Back on the east side, the lengthy progression of cut meats begins: pinwheel steaks, meatballs, and meatloaves; well-marbled prime beef (dry-aged 18 to 21 days – the primal cuts are hanging in full view); buffalo; spectacular shanks for osso bucco; and gorgeous cuts of veal, lamb, and pork. In birdland, we find duck confit, guinea fowl, duck, quail, chicken, turkey, and ground chicken and turkey. North of that is the in-house smoked section: double-smoked bacon, ribs, hocks, pork tenders, Frenched loin racks, and turkey.
Everything is natural or organic, with no nitrates, hormones, or water injection. The animals spend a maximum of three months in the feedlot, and they sell no animals older than 24 months. Here we have to quibble over a couple of things: Their fattiest mix of ground beef is 85% lean (fat equals flavor, folks!); they sell no Wagyu beef, considered by all as the finest steak available “because it takes three years to finish out” (even though organic wagyu sides are available from Austin’s Harrell Ranch, and natural is available from Strube Ranch in Pittsburg, Texas). To be the best you have to carry the best, and we find this meat village a Kobe steak (and several percentage points of fat) short of perfection.
This article appears in March 25 • 2005.
