by Patrick Earvolino
Mole poblano, or “mole”
(pronounced
“molay”) as the name is abbreviated in Texas, is arguably the most exalted
gastronomic delight in Mexico. Regarded as the country’s unofficial national
dish, the rich pur�e of chiles, nuts, chocolate, and myriad secondary
ingredients was invented in a Conquest-era monastery in the state of Puebla
(poblano means “from Puebla”), and its assimilation of New and Old World
ingredients and cooking techniques has come tosymbolize the culinary
birth of the mestizaje, the merging of Spanish and indigenous cultures.
To find a truly exquisite mole poblano, you could hop a bus and scour the
luncheonettes of south central Mexico, the heartland of mole country. Or you
could get into your car and drive over to Las Palomas restaurant in Westlake.
Hidden in the back corner of the West Woods mall, across the street from the
Randall’s on Bee Caves Rd., Las Palomas has been quietly serving Austin
authentic Interior Mexican cuisine since 1983. The restaurant is owned and
operated by Amelia and Javier Corona, formerly of Mexico City, and managed by
their daughter, Mari Carmen Dale. The family has drawn upon the cosmopolitan
flavor of its native city to create a menu featuring a wide variety of Mexican
cuisine, from an extensive selection of interior favorites like the mole, to a
smattering of border staples sure to please those with a hankering for Tex-Mex.
The Coronas say that many of their customers have become friends over the
years, and this is evidenced by the restaurant’s laid-back character. The tone
is set by the maitre d’, Javier, whose table visits and amiable demeanor foster
a comfortable atmosphere, and the mood is sustained by a competent, easygoing
wait staff. The restaurant’s decor does suffer a bit from strip-mall malaise;
the walls are stark and the bamboo chairs too low for some of the glass-top
tables (on one of my visits I felt like Tattoo waiting for Mr. Rourke to enter
the room cradling a couple of Mai Tais). But these shortcomings are
overshadowed by the amicable ambiance.
In the style of traditional Mexican restaurants, Las Palomas offers an
assortment of soups to start the meal. The best of these is the simple yet
satisfying chicken consomm� ($2.95), a Mexican standard of rice and
chicken in a light, flavorful broth. Every Mexican cook has her or his own
preferred condiments for the soup, and the Coronas’ accent of lime and cilantro
worked nicely (although heat lovers might want to request some chopped chile
serrano). Also noteworthy was the family’s version of the famous
chicken-chipotle soup, Caldo Tlalpe�o ($3.95). By substituting a thick
tomato base for the usual thin chicken stock and using ample chile chipotle,
the Coronas have given a tasty twist to a Mexican classic.
The menu’s starters also reflect a gringo influence. Unlike in Mexico, where
“salad” often refers to a small garnish of shredded lettuce or cabbage, Las
Palomas offers several interesting plates of greens. These include the popular
Fajita Salad ($7.95, also available al chipotle), a flour taco shell
filled with a generous portion of seasoned chicken strips, vegetables, and
cheese atop a bed of beans, as well as chicken and chef salads for diners not
in the Mexican mood. On the other hand, Tex-Mex freaks need not fear being shut
out, either, as there are a number of border-style appetizers and snacks such
as nachos, quesadillas, chile con queso, tostadas, and soft flour tacos to
choose from, all for $5-7.
Beyond the first courses, the menu becomes almost exclusively Interior
Mexican, and this is the area in which the restaurant most excels. The mole is
available ladled over chicken or cheese enchiladas ($6.95), but I recommend it
served atop a sizable boneless, skinless chicken breast ($9.25). The reddish
brown sauce smothering the chicken struck a perfect balance of spice and
texture, blending chile, chocolate, and cinnamon without the bitterness and
bits of chile skin that ruin so many moles. With a few a corn tortillas and
pickled jalape�os, the Coronas’ mole con pollo tasted like lunch
in Mexico City.
If you’re curious about Yucatecan food, on the other hand, then you might want
to try the Cochinita Pibil ($9.95). The dish of shredded pork cooked in achiote
and topped with pickled onions was a fine example of the distinctive flavor of
Mexico’s Carribbean peninsula. (But watch out; it is heavy here.)
Due west of Yucat�n, across the Gulf, lies Vera Cruz, a land renowned
throughout Mexico for its seafood, in particular its marinara sauce, salsa
veracruzana. Served over a fish filet or six butterflied shrimp ($10.25),
the Coronas’ scrumptious mild sauce of tomatoes, olives, capers, and herbs
certainly did justice to the reputation of its namesake state. And on the spicy
side, the Pescado al Chipotle ($9.95) — a broiled filet of orange roughy in a
fine chipotle-based sauce seasoned with garlic and parsley — is a good choice
for fans of the sacred smoked jalape�o.
Dessert may present a pleasant dilemma for those accustomed to the
stereotypical Mexican menu. The mango mousse ($2.50) was tart, creamy, and
delicious. Served warm with honey and cinnamon, the sopapillas ($2.50 for two;
with ice cream, $3.75) were also exceptional. But I’d have to give the nod to
the homemade flan ($2.50). Draped with Grand Marnier, the rich, dense treat
drummed up memories of lazing in a town square somewhere south of the border,
listening to the mariachis and sipping Nescafe, eating each wiggly sliver of
the custard-like dessert ever so slowly.
This recollection crystallizes the appeal of the Coronas’ restaurant: The
venue offers a genuine taste of Mexico amid a cozy, convivial atmosphere. And
it has been doing so for nearly 13 years, making it both pioneer and champion
of the Mexican food revolution. So if you’re interested in tasting food as it
is prepared in the heart of Mexico but don’t feel like taking a 15-hour bus
ride, check out Las Palomas. Did I mention they serve a great mole?
This article appears in February 2 • 1996 and February 2 • 1996 (Cover).