Ella’s Restaurant & Bar
#1 Jefferson Square, 458-2148
Mon-Thu, 11am-2pm, 5:30-10pm;
Fri & Sat, 11am-2pm, 5:30-10:30pm;
Sun, 10am-2pm
Many factors con-tribute to the success of an upscale restaurant: good food, attractively presented, and complemented with well-chosen wines and spirits; friendly, knowledgeable service that’s attentive but unobtrusive; and the creation of decor and atmosphere that are pleasant and inviting. Every so often, I discover an eatery where those critical elements converge harmoniously to suite my tastes and I’m reminded why I fell in love with restaurants in the first place. Ella’s, a classy little jewel box of a restaurant on Kerbey Lane in west Austin, is one of those spots. This is the second time I’ve fallen for a restaurant in the same location.
Many years ago, I worked in an attractive little place called the Galleria on Kerbey Lane that was known for its continental cuisine and the French wine list assembled by proprietor Bob Lowe, one of Austin’s early wine experts. The Galleria’s cozy dining room was divided into intimate seating areas by banquettes and stained glass panels, and the vine-covered patio was full when the weather permitted. It was popular with west Austinites and diners interested in learning more about wines. Working at the “Old Gal” relatively early in my career, I acquired invaluable experience and some lifelong friends. The Galleria was a very good example of a well-run small dining establishment, which always had a special place in my heart. Mr. Lowe operated the Galleria for many years, providing training for several chefs and wine stewards, putting plenty of students through school, and helping to build a market for fine wines in Austin. The location went through a couple of different incarnations in the late Eighties and early Nineties before a trio of partners gave it a classy redesign and re-christened it Ella’s.
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Ella’s Restaurant & bar |
Though I’ve had good lunches and dinners at Ella’s, the mealtime when I’m happiest is brunch. Sunday brunch here is a reasonably priced � la carte affair with several house special egg dishes, respectable versions of the requisite morning cocktails, and dynamite desserts. It’s possible to enjoy one of each and still spend less money than you would at some of the better-known brunch spots around town. On a late summer visit, I was tempted by many items but ultimately chose the Ella’s Waffle ($6.50), crisp pastry topped with a fried egg and tasty homemade sausage, drenched with a light chile con queso. A side order of fresh seasonal fruits ($3.00) and a Mimosa ($5.00) in a uniquely lovely glass were the perfect complement to the savory waffle dish. I finished off the meal with what was to become one of my favorite desserts of the year, the Lemon Meringue Tart ($6.00), a buttery nut tart shell filled with a rich, astringent lemon curd and topped with a hand-pulled swoop of flamed meringue. The contrasting flavors and textures — crunchy, toasted nuts, tart, velvety curd, and sweet meringue — come together in a dynamite dessert sensation for lemon lovers.
On another Sunday, the special of the day was a marinated, grilled quail served atop a Shiner Bock beer biscuit with cream gravy ($10.95), paired with the regular side dishes of black beans and roasted potatoes. The plump little bird was moist and juicy with a hint of smoke and grilling spices. The big biscuit was somewhat durable in texture, but the rich cream gravy was equally good on the roasted potatoes. Though I was dining alone and therefore not likely to generate a ticket that would produce a huge tip, the server was friendly and helpful, anticipating my desire for a side order of gravy and keeping my water glass filled. Other diners had beaten me to all the lemon tarts that day, forcing me to sample a rustic fruit Crostata ($6.00) a free-form sweet cookie dough filled that day with fresh plums and paired with delicious homemade ice cream. A very worthy alternative.
Our most recent Ella’s brunch excursion took place on a brisk January morning. Sharon Gerhardt was greeting each new group of diners with the offer of a goblet of the house hot chocolate ($2.50). The divine concoction was made with Ghiradelli chocolate, vanilla coffee, and a little cinnamon topped off with a dollop of cajeta-laced whipped cream. It was a lovely, grown-up treat that whetted our appetites and made us feel right at home. My friends chose menu items Eggs Ella’s ($6.75) and Chili Quiles ($5.75), while I again went for the special of the day, Grilled Salmon on Toasted Focaccia with Poached Eggs and Ancho Hollandaise ($10.95). The good-sized salmon filet was grilled perfectly — flaky inside with a slightly crisp exterior — and the two eggs were just soft enough without being too runny, my personal favorite. I couldn’t detect any ancho flavor in the hollandaise, but it was rich and satisfying nonetheless. The missing flavor in the sauce was one of the few minor wrinkles in the meal that day, along with Mimosas that resembled sparkling wine with orange pulp rather than the traditional wine and juice combination and a queso sauce on the Eggs Ella’s that lacked any chile punch at all. We finished the meal by sharing a lemon tart and a Bananas Foster Tart ($6.00) — caramelized bananas on a nut cookie base topped with Dulce de Leche ice cream and cajeta sauce — and our minor gripes melted away.
Perhaps I was predisposed to love Ella’s because I have history with the building. A more likely explanation is that the space is wonderful and I share many of the chef’s tastes in food. I also appreciate a restaurant which reflects the style and personality of its owner. Sharon Gerhardt works that little room like the pro she obviously is, making each of her guests feel welcome and at home. It works for me.
This article appears in January 22 • 1999 and January 22 • 1999 (Cover).