As a self-described “basic bitch,” I’m very much in my element when enjoying a cold beer and excellent fries on a sunny patio. But I have very strong opinions about what makes a basket of spuds shine. Size matters. Careful salt balance matters. Structural integrity for sauce absolutely matters. Koko’s Bavarian checked those boxes, which is why I was a devotee of the original spot long before the brand expanded into the Moody Center and other concert venues. From 2021 until it closed two years later, the East Fifth outpost felt like a refuge over a certain perpetually slammed nearby beer garden. It was a place to nurse a beer, eat something indulgent, and avoid feeling like you had wandered into someone else’s birthday party.
Open since October, the new Koko’s Bavarian Beer Hall on South Lamar keeps that spirit but scales it way up. This is not a quiet indie sequel; it is a big-budget blockbuster. The sprawling space trades brewing tanks for high-energy beer hall vibes and a robust cocktail program designed to keep people planted through multiple quarters, periods, or innings.
More than 90 TVs line the walls, anchored by a massive 23-foot screen that ranks among the largest in Austin. Live scores scroll. Vegas odds flash. On a recent visit, when NFL wasn’t airing, TGL golf glowed across the space. Music veers toward loud Nineties and early Aughts hits but occasionally pivots into crooners like “Beyond the Sea,” which feels both slightly confusing and charming.
Inside, couches, benches, barstools, and communal tables fill the room, creating a seamless layout that avoids bottlenecks. A side lounge near the bar, with comfy leather sofas and more TVs, works especially well for groups committed to a full game. Outside, a 2,000-square-foot patio sits under live oaks and comes outfitted with fans, heaters, picnic tables, and red Adirondack chairs in a designated smoker area. Dog water bowls dot the space, a clear signal that Koko’s expects guests to stay awhile and bring the whole pack. Mercifully, it has plenty of parking.
Despite the expansion, the Bavarian roots remain strong. Koko’s was co-founded by Konstantin Prinz von Bayern, an actual Bavarian prince whose lineage traces back to the origins of Oktoberfest in Munich. He helped shape the original concept and remains involved as the brand grows. That heritage is evident throughout the space and, more importantly, on the plate.
While Koko’s pretzels appear at Live Nation venues and festivals worldwide, at this South Lamar location they are made in-house and are a must-order. The pretzel arrives warm and buttery, with a lightly crisp exterior and a pillowy center. Spicy mustard complements the salt, while queso is available for those who want to lean into a Texan palate. It never feels like a concession-stand snack but rather a true Bavarian tradition.
House-made sausages still anchor the menu. Alongside bratwurst and Chicago dogs, Koko’s also serves currywurst, a Berlin street-food staple that’s somewhat of an acquired taste and a relative rarity in Austin. I veered elsewhere on my visits but was very tempted.
Those still-great Belgian fries arrive hot, crisp, and properly seasoned, with fluffy interiors that hold up to condiments. The classic sauce andalouse (mayo, tomato paste, and peppers) hits the right balance of creamy and tangy. The menu has also expanded to include salads, a smart addition once the beer calories start to multiply.
This is not a quiet indie sequel;
it is a big-budget blockbuster.
The chicken schnitzel is a standout. It’s available as a plate or a truly gargantuan po’boy – don’t attempt the sandwich solo unless you’re planning for tomorrow’s lunch. The breading on both versions is shatteringly crunchy without drying out the bird, and the lingonberry jam on the entrée cuts right through the richness. Warning: The menu doesn’t explicitly state that the plate comes with fries. Adding a side of potato salad was a rookie mistake.
The new griddled Reuben is another highlight, albeit an untidy one. Seriously, my phone slipped out of my hands after a bite. Thick-sliced pastrami replaces the usual shaved approach, giving the sandwich a smoky, barky depth. It’s greasy enough to require a beer chaser, though zippy kraut keeps it from tipping into excess. The house-made pickle is a quiet hero, light and vinegary – more marinated cucumber than gas station pickle.
Not everything lands. The steak and fries (priced at $34 daily or $35 with a pint of Guinness for a Tuesday special) feels like the weakest link in the chain. The beef arrives pre-sliced into small strips, almost fajita-style, smothered in an onion gravy, and unnecessarily topped with fried onions. A frisée salad brings some much-needed brightness, but the dish never quite clicks.
Wings are a new addition and worth ordering, however. The dry-rubbed lemon spice version delivers zesty, crispy skin with juicy meat, but your fingers will not escape unscathed. Buffalo and Szechuan pepper versions are also available, and they all come with the necessary ranch side. The lack of wet wipes feels like an oversight for a place that prides itself on finger foods.
Service overall feels friendly and well-intentioned, though clearly still settling in. Small things pop up: missing side plates for messy shared dishes, unclear menu omissions, and random appearances of bacon without warning (the aforementioned potato salad). None of these derails the experience, but tightening those details would elevate it quickly.
Behind the bar, Travis Tober (of Nickel City and Murray’s Tavern fame) has crafted a cocktail program that complements the beer hall energy. Frozen drinks are a major draw and come in festive color-changing cups. The creamy frozen Dr Pepper is a nostalgic sip, while the frozen Irish coffee is distinct from Nickel City’s version. A cucumber-gin shandy offers a refreshing counterpoint to heavier dishes. Draft beer pours range from 16 to 32 ounces, with an emphasis on local brews and lighter German styles like helles, kölsch, hefeweizen, and dunkel.
If you still have room, dessert will definitely push you over the edge. The German chocolate brownie is rich and gooey, topped with a crackly coconut layer that adds texture and contrast. Dark cherry ice cream cuts through the sweetness with just enough tartness to make room for one more bite.
The new Koko’s commits fully to the beer hall experience: Big screens, cold beer, food built for sharing, a shaded patio that encourages lingering. It’s louder and more maximalist than the Eastside original, but it still remembers its fundamentals. Fries matter. Pretzels matter. And spending time with your chosen community – or fellow sports fans – will always matter.
This article appears in January 23 • 2026.