The very thought of California may rancor some old Austin purists, but the neutral textures, pops of cool color, and organic accents of West Coast design are at peace with equally bright Austin. And Californian cuisine, with a focus on lighter proteins and local vegetables, works with Austin’s health and environment-concerned locals. True, Austin cooking may be popularly tied to beef, offal, pork, and fat, but Café No Sé executive chef Michael Paley argues for an entirely other direction.
That’s not to say that there are not heartier dishes (especially on the dinner menu) like a New York strip steak, a cheeseburger, and charcuterie, but the bulk of the menu celebrates the vegetable. Highlights include roasted Romanesco cauliflower served with Calabrian chili and golden raisins, charred fennel with pressed ricotta, and a roasted beet salad that gives some new life to the beet trend with the addition of blueberry, hazelnuts, and Point Reyes blue cheese. The peak produce and considered proteins like Ora King salmon and striped bass belie the need for fussiness.
That trend continues on the brunch menu where avocado toast, purple hull peas with poached eggs, and a few smart salads make the bulk of the menu. For those who need a something a little more mimosa-absorbent, there are egg scrambles and a pork sandwich big enough for leftovers. There is plenty of decadence too in the pastries like apple frangipane or ham and cheese croissants. For dessert, the Kir Royale paleta is a showstopper, served in a glass with a pour of bubbles.
As one might expect from a California inspired restaurant, the wine list is varied (and affordable). The beer list is kept small, and could use a few more local selections, but the few simple cocktails are ready for our endless summer.
And the next time you find yourself considering cursing California? Remember that the state brought us Brian Wilson and the cast of Full House. Then try out Café No Sé with an open mind.
Café No Sé
1603 S. Congress Ave.
Sun.-Wed.,7am-10pm; Thu.-Sat., 7am-12mid
www.cafenoseaustin.com
This article appears in Attack of the 50-Foot Uterus!.