Jack Gilmore (second from right) and sons plate up lamb shepherd’s pie and mac ‘n cheese at their annual farmers appreciation lunch Credit: photo by Rachel Feit

These days, chefs get a lot of attention for their craftsmanship. Cuisine is this country’s newest pop art and we have begun to treat those who create it with Hollywood-esque reverence. But chefs will likely say that food growers are the true unsung heroes of the business.

Without them, “we wouldn’t be able to do what we do at our restaurants,” says Jack Gilmore of Jack Allen’s Kitchen. So for the past three years, Gilmore and his sons Dylan and Bryce (Barley Swine/Odd Duck) have been hosting a farmer appreciation lunch. It’s one of the few times of year when local farmers get to put on glass slippers. This year’s shindig took place last Saturday. It featured I0 Ranch lamb shepherd’s pie, Richardson Farms chicken stewed with tomatoes, eggplant, and zucchini, and black-eyed pea salad with sweet peppers – among other plate-licking concoctions. Everything was supplied by local farmers, natch.

Credit: photo by Rachel Feit
The well-attended afternoon party had the feel of a family reunion, with farm owners, kids, and employees lining up at the buffet and bar while the band belted out Texas swing standards. “Things can get a little rowdy, and I usually have to close the bar and kick everyone out around 4:30 so I can get ready for the Saturday evening slam,” says Gilmore. And with that, the carriage turns back into a pumpkin, or in this case, maybe just a pickup full of pumpkins.

More farmer appreciation happens on September 28th, when local restaurateurs collaborate on a benefit for East Austin’s Springdale Farms, which has been suffering from a cumbersome urban farm permitting review process. Tickets are $50 and can be purchased here.

Credit: photo by Rachel Feit

This article appears in September 12 • 2014.

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Rachel Feit is an archaeologist by trade who worked her way through college in kitchens in Chicago and Austin before discovering that dishing up words was more satisfying that dishing up meals. She has been writing about food and restaurants for The Austin Chronicle for more than a decade, but still loves to cook.