New Menu at Polvo’s
2004 S. First, 441-5446Sunday-Friday, 7am-10pm; Saturday, 7am-11pm
I have been a regular at Polvo’s for a long time, because I love their casual atmosphere, good interior Mexican home-cooking, and affordable prices. Recently, the menu was expanded with many new items, and I was excited to see some interesting new options and some staples from interior Mexico. With the growing popularity of Bouldin Creek, Polvo’s has gone through some changes lately to accommodate the new demographics of the neighborhood. Unfortunately, however, not all of the changes at Polvo’s have been for good, and after four months, many things still need fine-tuning.
The first noticeable change is in the waitstaff. I have always had good service at Polvo’s, and the staff was friendly and efficient. Four months after the new items were added to the menu, the new waitstaff still cannot describe the ingredients in the new dishes. The Enchiladas Exoticas Plate ($10.99), although expensive for just two enchiladas, rice, and beans, seemed like a good way to try out their new “exotic” sauces. The waiter could not tell me anything about any of the sauces except that they were “very hot,” so I chose randomly to try the Huasteca and the Cartuja on each of the two enchiladas. The Huasteca, a good achiote sauce, is better suited for fish or chicken rather than enchiladas. The Cartuja tasted to me like ketchup with orange juice and mushrooms. Neither of them was “hot” in the least.
I am a fan of Mexico’s spicy/savory cocktails, and I was happy to see new drinks on the menu, including a good Michelada ($3.75), a Mexican traditional beer cocktail, served on ice and flavored with lime juice, salt, and spices. Two other interesting sounding drinks: Vuelve a la Vida and Picosita, have eluded me. None of the waiters have been able to tell me what they are, and worse, I still have not been able to try them because apparently no one knows how to make them. I look forward to being there one day when the “right” bartender is working.
There are some good things on the new menu at Polvo’s. The Chile Relleno al Nogal ($8.99), a big stuffed poblano covered with a creamy almond sauce, was very good. The Cerveza Fajitas ($8.99) are some of the best I’ve ever had, marinated with beer and served with grilled poblano strips and melted Chihuahua cheese on the side, plus rice, beans, and salad. The Polvo’s Fish à la Plancha ($9.75) is an outstanding deal, deliciously grilled with guajillo chile strips and lots of crispy garlic, served on a bed of rice, and garnished with a fresh salad and lime wedges. When the food is good at Polvo’s, it is really good.
By providing training for the waitstaff, including tasting the new menu items so they can be able to describe them accurately, and by teaching a few people how to prepare their new intriguing drinks, Polvo’s can make sure that their changes will all be for the better.
This article appears in April 18 • 2003.