Dariush Persian Grill
918 Congress, 479-7979
Monday-Friday: 11am-2pm, 5-10pm; Saturday, 5-11pm
www.dariushpersiangrill.comPersian cuisine confounds some, but what you really need to know is that it’s not spicy but uses a lot of spices; it relies heavily on the use of fresh herbs, dried fruits, nuts, and Basmati rice; and is considered one of the healthier diets. With a prime spot along the ancient Spice Route between Asia and the Mediterranean, it was influenced by (and influenced) most of the foods and cuisines in transit. It’s not Arabic but shares some of the same dishes and many of the ingredients. The food has more in common with Turkey than hardcore Afghan or Middle Eastern. If you haven’t tried it yet, Dariush Persian Grill provides an easy exploratory entry into the cuisine.
Owned by Jaqueline and Farhad Bordbar, Dariush is a pleasant spot on the west side of Congress, just south of 10th. The menu offers a wide range of choices (including vegan), in all price ranges. The scene is subdued and slightly dark and the music, intriguing Persian.
We started with a shared Mazzeh platter ($10.95), which offered nice portions of hummus (lightly textured, with a complex flavor), tabouli (minced finely, and one of the nicer versions around), dolma (lemony, with dill), an excellent yogurt-spinach dip, a mix of labneh (thick yogurt) with wild shallots, superb black olives, ripe cherry tomatoes, and dense feta cheese cubes, all served with warm whole wheat pita. Very satisfying. We followed with an excellent chicken wrap in lavash bread ($6.25): marinated, grilled, and moist chicken breast with Persian pickle, tomato, lettuce, and yogurt-tahini sauce. Sliced, it makes a great appetizer; whole, a perfect lunch.
From the sides menu, we split a Koobideh Kabob ($4.75): minced beef with onion and spices, formed around a sword-shaped skewer. It is juicy and flavorful, especially when sprinkled with some sumac (fruity and tart ground berries, in the shaker on the table if you’re curious), and dipped in the yogurt-shallot sauce. Mixed, Chopped Pickle ($3.95) is a must: 20 different vegetables, fruits, and spices aged in vinegar and minced; a perfect foil for all of the tastes.
Since khoresht (stews) are a mainstay of the traditional cuisine, we chose three to sample. The Lamb With Split Peas and Tomato ($9.95) was a big hit: rich and mysterious, tart from the addition of loomi (saltwater-boiled and sun-dried limes), and authentically topped with french fries. Next was Fesenjan ($10.95), a sweet and sour stew of chicken, with crushed walnuts and pomegranate juice. We thought the balance a little off and preferred it a tad more tart, which could be easily accomplished with sumac or the yogurt dip. Third was Lamb With Herbs and Beans ($9.95): a combo that seems pedestrian at first but really grows on you. We especially liked that it included some mild greens (collards, perhaps?) in the mix. All three are served with chelo (fluffy basmati rice) and yogurt-shallot dip.
We had to order some Shishlick (lamb kabob, $14.95). It’s not skewered, but it is a long, well-trimmed piece of grilled lamb tenderloin. It was a tad overdone for my tastes but still juicy and full-flavored. It comes with rice that is flavored with lima beans and dill (it’s a subtle addition). Of the seasoned rice options, we preferred the barberry (tart little currantlike shrub fruits) and saffron combo ($2.75).
If we had to fault Dariush for anything, it might be their judicious use of the salt shaker: Almost everything tasted better and more balanced with a sprinkling of salt. That’s an easy remedy. All in all, a very pleasant and decidedly different meal, and with their location on Congress, easily accessible from most of Austin.
This article appears in April 21 • 2006.
