by Robb Walsh
Every
year at this time, I write a cute little article about the limestone caves under the city of Reims
where Champagne is stored, or about the widow Cliquot who founded one of the
great Champagne houses of France, or on some other seemingly charming topic
related to the subject of Champagne. And at the end of the article, I list my
picks for the best deals in town on sparkling wine. It’s taken me three years
to figure out that nobody ever reads the silly stories at the beginning of this
article because they’re in such a rush to get to the price list at the end.
It’s also taken me three years to figure out how to do the list.
The first time I tried it, I listed a bunch of great bargains on sparkling
wines, but I neglected to mention which store had them. I was inundated with
phone calls from readers who were trying to find the wines. The next year, I
included the stores, but I got calls from readers who had found the same wine
cheaper somewhere else. Last year, I think I got it right. In fact, I know I
got it right, because of all the anguish I caused the wine merchants. In order
to make sure I had the cheapest price on each bottle, I read them each other’s
prices. You should have heard the moaning.
“That guy is giving his Champagne away!” and “I can’t even buy it for that
price!” they screamed in my ear. Several wine dealers negotiated their prices
on sparkling wine while we were still on the phone.
“He’s got that for $18.99? I’ll go down to $18.49!”
In other words, I unwittingly set off a Champagne War. Like two gas stations
on opposite corners who keep dropping their prices to steal each other’s
business, some Austin wine stores and grocery stores are dropping their
Champagne prices to unheard-of lows to get your attention.
Of course the idea is to set the Champagne prices low as a way to get you in
the door to sell you other stuff. But if you ever drink Champagne at any other
time of the year, you know that these holiday bargains are pretty outrageous.
The wine producers are getting into the act, too. They know that every wine
retailer in the country is looking for bubbly bargains this time of the year,
and so they compete with other winemakers with wholesale holiday specials.
In some cases, this leads to exceptional bargains, in some cases it leads to
inferior wines. Several retailers told me that they had dropped some of last
year’s bargain brands because the quality of this year’s vintage is off. Some
winemakers, it seems, are cutting corners or trying to use up oxidized stocks
in their bargain blends.
So buyer beware! Last year’s bargain could be this year’s bellywash. I could
go on, but what’s the use? All you really want to know is how much you’re going
to pay for the fizzy stuff this year. So without further ado… bubbly bargains
for 1995:
Domestics Under $10:
Here’s a surprise. Chandon under $10? Could it be? After years of prices thatseemed to slip ever higher, Domaine Chandon finally came to its senses and
created a new blend that they could sell cheap. And judging by the cash
register, it’s quite a hit with consumers. Buy early; this one could sell out!
Chandon Brut Cuv�e, $9.99 — A new light and toasty-flavored blend from
one of America’s favorite sparkling wine producers. (Austin Wine Merchant —
AWM)
Chandon Blanc de Noirs, $9.99 — A salmon-colored, full-bodied blend of Pinot
Noir and Pinot Meunier, a little heavier than the Brut Cuv�e; I like it
better. (AWM)
Domaine Ste. Michelle $8.79 — Blanc de blanc from Washington State with lots
of chardonnay and good crispness. (Wiggy’s)
Domestics Under $20
This category used to be exclusively Californian. But a surprise contenderfrom New Mexico made its way onto the list this year, thanks in part to Coyote
Cafe, which has put New Mexico sparkling wine on the map:
Gruet Brut, $11.99 –“This is the, hands down, best value in the world under
$15,” raves Rob from Wiggy’s. Gruet is a small French-owned winery in New
Mexico that specializes in Chardonnays, but lately everybody is talking about
their bubbly. (Wiggy’s)
Domaine Carneros Brut, $14.99 — Made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes
from California’s premier cool-weather microclimate, a citrusy, crisp sparkler
from the Taittinger people. (Wiggy’s)
Iron Horse Brut, 1990, $18.99 — This one is always highly recommended. Rob
from Wiggy’s says it tastes “racy and focused.” (I love it when he talks like
that.) (Wiggy’s)
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley Brut, $11.99 — A great buy on everybody’s
favorite elegant California bubbly. (AWM)
French Under $10:
The best buys in bubbly under 10 bucks, in my humble opinion, tend to be theFrench sparkling wines made by the traditional champagne method in regions
outside the borders of the Champagne district. Here’s this year’s favorites:
Marquis de Latour $8.99 — A Chenin
Blanc-based blend from the Loire
Valley, fruity and clean. (Reuben’s)
Francois Montand, Blanc de Blanc, $7.99 — Chardonnay-style, citrusy and
crisp. (Central Market — CM)
Charles de Fere, Blanc de Blanc, $7.49 — Crisp, stylish Chardonnay flavors.
(CM)
Varichon et Clerc, Blanc de Blanc, 1992 $8.79 – Light, dry, and crisp with
Chardonnay fruit flavors. (CM)
Veuve de Vernay, $5.99 — Toasty flavors and hazelnut aromas, a good bet if
you’re buying several cases. (CM)
Bouvet Brut Signature, $7.99 — A great bargain on a refreshing light sparkler
from the Loire River Valley. (AWM)
Charles de Fere, Brut Tradition Chardonnay, $8.75 — 100% Chardonnay, rich
creamy flavor, a great bargain. (AWM)
Non-Vintage Champagne:
Most of the top Champagne producers sell a non-vintage blend like Cliquot’s“Orange Label.” These tend to be much better buys than the snob-appeal top-end
labels. Here’s this year’s list:
Veuve Clicquot, Brut, “Orange Label,” $26.99 — Nutty, yeasty, sensational:
the best price/value bet in French Champagne. (Wiggy’s)
Oudinot, Brut, $17.99 — For just a little more than most California
sparklers, this genuine Champagne with a Chardonnay flavor is a great deal.
(Wiggy’s)
Laurent-Perrier Brut, $24.99 — Intense flavors and full toasty fruit, this
wine usually sells for much more. (Wiggy’s)
Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut, $18.75 — They claimed to have changed their fruit and
updated the blend, the bubbles are tighter than ever. This is the number-two
Champagne in the State of Texas. (AWM)
Mumm Extra Dry, $17.99 — For those who like their bubbly pleasantly sweet.
(AWM)
Perrier-Jou�t Grand Brut, $19.99 — A light and delicate sparkler.
(AWM)
Bollinger Special Cuv�e Brut, $24.99 or $24 a bottle in a six-pack — A
creamy-style sparkler with very fine bubbles from an excellent Champagne house.
(AWM)
Perrier-Jouet Blason de France, $42.50 — The classiest non-vintage on the
market with exceptional richness and depth. Maybe the best value in town.
“Nearly perfect,” claims James from Austin Wine Merchant. (AWM)
Pommery Brut, $19.99 — Established in 1836, Pommery was once a very popular
Champagne house. Today the brand is making a comeback; recommended for those
who enjoy a full-flavored, heavy style. (Wiggy’s/AWM)
Ros�
Pink Champagne used to be a joke. Not anymore. If you can track down a bottleof ros� Champagne made from Pinot Noir grapes, odds are, you’re in for a
treat. Of course, Pinot Noir grapes aren’t cheap, so neither is the wine. Pinot
Noir is responsible for the nutty, toasty flavors in Champagne. If you like the
nuttier style (like Veuve Clicquot) then you’ll love the 100% Pinot Noir
ros�s. Here are the best buys we could find:
Mumm’s Cordon Rouge Ros� $22.99 — Rumor has it that this non-vintage
label is really Mumm’s1985 vintage ros� relabeled for quick sale. The
vintage stuff went for $40-50 a bottle, so if the rumors are true, this is
quite a buy. (Reuben’s)
Handley, Brut Ros�, 1990, $17.49 — Beautiful Pinot flavors in a
Mendocino sparkler. (CM)
Van der Kamp, “Midnight Cuv�e” Brut Ros�, 1989, $14.99 — A
stunning ros� that spends three years on the yeast, just like the good
French stuff. (CM)
Iron Horse Brut Ros�, 1989, $24.99 — Full-bodied, rich, spicy, cherry
Pinot flavors, the taste of a Burgundy in a sparkling wine — outstanding!
(CM)
Pommery Ros�, $23.99 — A very soft and yeasty wine with lots of body
and berry flavors from a famous old Champagne house on its way back. (Wiggy’s) n
Robb Walsh is a food writer for various publications including American
Way. He is also the author of the cookbook Traveling Jamaica With Knife,
Fork, and Spoon.
This article appears in December 22 • 1995 and December 22 • 1995 (Cover).