5416 Parkcrest Dr, 459-9960
Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm.
When I was a kid, my mother, an avid cook, refused to make anything too ordinary for dinner.
Alfalfa sprout- and green chile-topped “dobe burgers” with spicy mayonnaise
were served in place of hamburgers, and one of my earliest encounters with
pasta was spaghetti smothered with clam sauce, never meatballs! My upbringing
on eclectic dishes became the topic of conversation one evening at Cafe Spiazzo
when I chose black pepper liguine with clam sauce ($8.95) from the restaurant’s
widely varied menu and then attempted to explain my choice to dinner partners
who were surprised by my selection.
Justification arrived with the dish — a bowl of pasta sprinkled with steamed
clams, onions, red peppers, garlic, and parsley. Aromatic and fresh, the pasta
was moistened by a light sauce of white wine and olive oil, and I delighted in
its simplicity. Although samples of the entr�e didn’t elicit unanimous
“wows” from my friends, everyone did agree the pasta had all the trappings of
comfort food — quality ingredients and straightforward execution. Overwhelming
approval went to a chalkboard special generously loaded with scallops, shrimp,
mussels, onions, mushrooms, tomatoes, and spinach in a Southwestern-inspired
ancho-honey-lime-marsala sauce over jalape�o fettuccine. Although a
marked departure from classic Italian, the flavors blended harmoniously. Cafe
Spiazzo handles innovation well. In fact, the surprisingly intimate restaurant
(given its strip-mall location) features an unusual assortment of traditional
Italian favorites, more mod designer pizzas, and a number of unique “Italy
SXSW” specialties.
The classic Sicilian caponata appetizer ($6.45), served with garlic baked
until it’s as smooth as butter, tangy goat cheese, and toasted slabs of rustic
bread is an excellent, traditional way to begin a meal. More unusual is the
Spicy Chipotle Cappellini entr�e ($7.95/$9.95 with grilled chicken) in
which Italian standbys such as mushrooms, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes,
onion, and whole garlic cloves are ignited by a smoky sauce of Southwestern
fire. The pizza di pollo (7.95), a thin-crusted round spread with
grilled chicken, sun-dried tomato pesto, mushrooms, red onions, cheese, and
garlic cloves, proved to be enough for two to share, especially when
accompanied by the cool tomatoes caprese salad ($4.95), a generous portion of
ripe tomatoes and cubes of fresh, spongy mozzarella tossed in balsamic vinegar
and olive oil.
The wine list at Cafe Spiazzo is relatively broad, although in a nod to
Italian trattorias, the restaurant also serves an enjoyable house wine
by the liter or half-liter. Desserts are ever-changing, as are pizza and pasta
specials. And did I mention the festive, splatter-painted decor?
— Rebecca Chastenet de G�ry
This article appears in October 4 • 1996 and October 4 • 1996 (Cover).