Polvos

2004 S. First, 441-5446
Daily, 7am-11pm
www.polvosaustin.com

Located on the southwest corner of South First and Johanna streets, the spot was first Jalapeño Charlie’s and then Seis Salsas before Polvos got it. A polvo is a dust devil, and also slang for a “quickie.” It has an outdoor patio where the music is usually too loud, and parents tend to let their evil spawn run amok. Other than that, it’s pleasant. Inside, a tile table is laden with the day’s assortment of help-yourself salsas and escabeche (please don’t take all the carrots). There is a full bar, and keep in mind that in Texas, drinks can be served starting at 10am on Sunday if you have food also.

Polvos has all of the Mexican breakfast options you can think of, but there are some favorites to consider. The Trash Can Plate ($8.99) offers two scrambled eggs mixed with bacon, ham, potatoes, cheese, pico de gallo, spinach, sausage, mushrooms, chipotle, machacado, and chorizo, served with refried beans and potatoes. Huevos Motuleños ($7.99), is a Yucatecan specialty of eggs topped with chipotle sauce and fried bananas, all served on a bed of black beans with potatoes.

Polvos also makes a nice version of migas ($6.99); ask for extra jalapeños to get it just right. They also serve the coveted plate of machacado with eggs ($6.99), shredded, dried beef with scrambled eggs and ranchero sauce. You can order any of the regular sauces, plus it offers some exotic sauces as well for a little extra. I recommend a side of roasted poblano chile rajas (strips) to go with anything, and it has its own proprietary blend of Costa Rican coffee, also available by the pound. Good luck with parking, and don’t block the neighbors’ drives, but it’s worth the trouble for a great breakfast.

This article appears in March 18 • 2011.

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Mick Vann is a retired Austin chef who is a food writer and restaurant critic, cookbook author, restaurant consultant, and recipe developer. He moonlights as a University of Texas horticulturist with a propensity for ethnic eats and international food, particularly of the Asian persuasion, but he also knows his way around a plate of soul food or barbecue.