The South truly meets the Southwest in Austin at breakfast time, and a good biscuit can make all the difference. Here are some options in the central city.
Night Hawk Frisco Shop
6801 Burnet Rd., 459-6279www.frisconighthawk.com
Breakfast, 7-11am weekdays, 7am-noon weekends
In a new location, but Ricky Nelson is still on the jukebox, and the breakfast cooks still smile when you show up. Fluffy golden biscuits come with various breakfast combinations, but go for Eggs Decorated with chili, beans, grits, and biscuits. Order a side portion of Laurence’s sausage gravy, about the best around. No measly little packets of butter and preserves here – you get a generous saucerful.
Lamberts Downtown Barbecue
401 W. Second, 494-1500www.lambertsaustin.com
Sunday brunch, 11am-2pm
Too bad Lamberts only makes biscuits for Sunday brunch. There’s much to like on the buffet, but do order this town’s tallest buttermilk biscuits that come with mildly spiced sausage gravy and eggs beautifully cooked your way.
Arkie’s Grill
4827 E. Cesar Chavez, 385-2986Monday-Friday, 5:30am-3:30pm
Arkie’s is an Austin institution and a great place for a traditional Southern diner breakfast. Two eggs to order, sausage patty, pond of creamy grits, with light biscuits and beautifully seasoned sausage gravy on the side.
Cisco’s
1511 E. Sixth, 478-2420Daily, 7am-2:30pm
Biscuits and migas are an inspired match, reflecting much about Central Texas food culture. This could be the definitive Austin breakfast – a big beautiful plate of migas with a griddled sausage patty, pinto beans, a pool of red salsa, and dense, brown-topped biscuits to mop it all up.
Counter Cafe
Daily, 8am-4pm; breakfast served all day
In this tiny 21st century diner, get the big crumbly biscuits with quality cream gravy, or go all out for the excellent eggs Benedict – poached eggs with hollandaise and fresh spinach, but served on split biscuits instead of an English muffin.
TRIO at the Four Seasons
98 San Jacinto, 685-8300www.fourseasons.com/austin/dining
Breakfast, Monday-Friday, 6:30-11am; Saturday, 7-11am; Sunday, 7-9am; Sunday brunch, 10am-2pm
TRIO is a steak house at night, but breakfast on the sunny patio overlooking the river is a fine way to start the day. Pamper yourself with lovely, silky buttermilk biscuits and creamy gravy, along with freshly squeezed juice and a tender omelet.
Popeyes
Nine locations in AustinSunday-Thursday, 10am-11pm; Friday-Saturday, 10am-12mid
Yes, Popeyes is a fast-food chain, but these are seriously good biscuits – light, flaky, buttery, with the right touch of salt. No butter is served, but it would be redundant; avoid the honey “sauce.” Just eat the biscuits, preferably with hot, crispy fried-chicken tenders tucked inside.
1886 Cafe and Bakery, Driskill Hotel
116 E. Sixth, 391-7121www.1886cafeandbakery.com
Breakfast, 7-11am weekdays; 7am-2:30pm weekends
Don’t let the idea of jalapeño-corn biscuits stop you; these are spicy, crumbly, corny, and delicious. They’re fine alone, but go crazy, and order the Austin, Texas, Benedict: poached eggs and smoked bacon on split biscuits, dressed with amazing chorizo cream gravy.
Kerbey Lane Cafe
Four locationswww.kerbeylanecafe.com
Kerbey Lane serves breakfast 24/7; this is the place for a biscuit in the afternoon or at 3am. Big buttermilk biscuits are fluffy rather than flaky, perfectly salted, and served with lovely cream gravy – plenty peppery. Alongside a couple of eggs and two patties of breakfast sausage, you’ll be good to go.
Dan’s Hamburgers
Three locations in AustinBreakfast daily, 6-11am
Join savvy South Austin retirees at Dan’s for hearty biscuits, sausage, and gravy. You may need to wait for a table, or you can get your biscuits to go. These big boys are light and a bit crumbly; the thick, tasty gravy is rife with flecks of black pepper.
This article appears in March 20 • 2009.
