By Pableaux Johnson
Up
until a few years ago, olives were traditionally encountered on combination pizzas or in 1930s
RKO movies depicting martini-swilling urbanites. One rarely found them in real
life, and when you did they were available in only two types: green and black.
That one jar of Spanish olives stuffed with lazy, discolored pimento strips
probably spent 20 years on your mother’s refrigerator door, while pizza parlor
California olive slices suspiciously resembled plumbing supplies. But go to any
coast of the Mediterranean and you’ll find whole subcultures devoted to the
fleshy little salt bombs. Like our scrub mesquite, olive trees flourish in the
rocky, parched soil that surrounds the inland sea, so olives figure heavily in
Mediterranean cuisine. Olives, especially marinated ones, satisfy two of the
basic food cravings — salty and sour — and so make the perfect stand-alone
appetizer. Bartenders in Spain and France serve snack bowls full of olives to
encourage consistent thirst and competitive pit-spitting — the international
bar sport of kings. Given half a chance, cooks from Morocco to Greece to Egypt
throw olives into their distinguished dishes.
The recent visibility of Mediterranean cuisine and the return of nuevo/retro
martini chic has brought the olive back to our collective attention. Designer
cocktails now come garnished with swank three-olive spears. Greek salads or
lighter Italian pasta dishes appear as flavors of the month and give the
health-conscious ample excuse to consume more garlic, olives, and red wine.
Elaborate menu descriptions refer to specific olive types such as Kalamata,
Ni�oise, and Amphissa, but most of us still think of them as pretty
names for female triplets.
If forced to categorize the olive, most folks would place it in either the
“vegetable” or “garnish” food group. In actuality, however, the olive is a
naturally bitter fruit that requires a multi-step curing process to become
edible — first soaked in alkaline solution, then fermented in brine or salt to
reduce bitterness and tenderize the flesh. After curing, some olives marinate
in vinegars or herb mixtures to give them signature taste characteristics. They
vary in color from an unripe pale green through pinkish-brown to fully ripened
jet black, and come in a wide range of sizes and shapes.
If you cook or mix drinks at home, the best way to learn about olives
involves sampling different types — directly out of the barrel, if possible.
Luckily, Austin has several groceries that carry a wide selection of olives and
encourage customers to graze and experiment. An average olive bar assumes that
you’ll buy what you need, and usually presents the product floating happily in
five-gallon buckets of brine or vinegar marinade. Visiting an olive bar allows
you to taste the different types, compare textures, and then buy smaller
amounts for good prices, thus reducing the number of jars on your fridge door.
They’re the perfect place to start your self-study of the olive.
Central Market (4001 North Lamar) contains the largest of Austin’s olive bars,
tucked away in the trademark gourmet labyrinth between the deli and cheese
sections. Central Market displays about 30 different olive types, including
many French and some pre-pitted varieties. Walking the barrels here tends to be
educational, since each tub is well-marked with a short description of color,
nation of origin, and possible serving suggestions. It’s a serve-yourself
operation that isn’t particularly conducive to grazing, but allows you to pick
your own mix for a flat rate of $5/pound. While the prices tend to be on the
high side — about a dollar a pound higher than other places — you get the
advantage of seeing and comparing a very wide variety in a single stop.
* Pitted Kalamata: One of the more popular black olives, commonly found
on Greek salads. They have a pronounced, powerful olive flavor and high salt
content. And since there are no pits, you can knock ’em back like candy.
* Gaeta: Plump, dark purple Italian olives with very tender, almost
melt-away, texture. On the naturally sour side, but cured and stored in brine.
* Proven�al: A medium-green French olive, marinated in fragrant
herbs de Provence (a mix of basil, lavender, thyme, fennel, savory,
rosemary). The herbs hit you in the nose first, followed by the olive
and salt flavors. Interesting balance of herbal aroma and olive taste.
* Picholine: A slender, full-flavored green olive from the south of
France. Sweet (as olives go) with a nice, crunchy texture.
Phoenicia Deli & Bakery (2912 South Lamar) operates a full-service olive
bar, with individual prices marked for each of 16 varieties. Just like at most
ice cream joints, the staff will get you samples on request. Phoenicia offers
good prices on Greek and Lebanese olives ($3-5/pound, depending on type) and a
wide range of imported Mediterranean specialties. If you need to assemble a
quick meal to go with the olives, pick up some hummus, tabbouleh,
and freshly baked pita bread for a quick snack tray.
* Black Alfonsos: Soft-skinned Chilean olive with very tender flesh.
Similar in texture to a small plum. Cured in wine vinegar for a satisfying
sour/salt rush.
* Phoenicia House Blend: Lebanese green olives marinated in herbs and
packed in olive oil. Heavy on the garlic. After you finish the olives, use the
oil for cooking or salad dressings.
* Green Greek cracked: Crunchy flesh flavored with lemon and stored in
vinegar. Good bowl or antipasto olive.
* Moroccan oil-cured: These black olives have a wrinkled, leathery
surface from the dry salt curing process. Since they retain more of their
natural bitterness, oil-cured olives work better when cooked than eaten
straight.
Austin Gourmet Market (1931 East Oltorf), though not as large as the other
operations, gets high praise for their spiced olives. They prepare and package
their own olives, which can also be found in local supermarkets and gourmet
shops. A simple refrigerated deli counter holds about 10 different varieties,
but the counter staff cheerfully encourages you to taste all you want.
* Spicy: Cracked green olives in a powerful chili pepper/vinegar
marinade the consistency of tomato sauce. The afterburn sits on your tongue for
a spell and hurts real good. Toss with pasta for a quick pepper fix.
* Jalape�o Stuffed: Huge, crisp green California olives cured
Sicilian-style and stuffed with pickled jalape�o. Both flavors remain
distinct and complement each other nicely without either dominating. A great
alternative martini olive or accompaniment for tequila.
* Garlic-Stuffed: Always save the best for last. Another good martini
olive, it’s the same California Colossal olive stuffed with a pickled garlic
clove. If you like garlic, you’ll want to inhale a pound in a single sitting.
Especially good during the cold and flu season, but if you’re in close
quarters, make sure everyone gets a taste. n
This article appears in December 1 • 1995 and December 1 • 1995 (Cover).