Thanh Nhi

9200 N. Lamar #104, 834-1736
Daily, 9am-9pm

Thanh Nhi has been open one year, and the married couple that runs it is extremely accommodating and friendly. The atmosphere is utilitarian, but great attention is paid to doing everything properly in a no-short-cuts, dignified manner. Seven types of bánh mì (small $1.85, large $2.70) are offered (mainly of the “everything but the squeal” pork sort), but the best are the grilled pork barbecue and the grilled pork pâté. The barbecue has a barely discernible Oriental spice rub that is very pleasant, and the pâté is firm and meaty, actually more of a pork sausage. The bread at Thanh Nhi is fresh, soft, and lightly crisp on the outside and is deftly hollowed out and spread with a thin homemade pâté. The marinated vegetables include cucumbers, daikon radish, carrots, and slices of fresh jalapeño, as well as fresh cilantro.

This article appears in October 10 • 2008.

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Kate Thornberry worked in renowned Austin restaurants for 30 years while pursuing a reasonably successful career in music. She began contributing to the Chronicle in 1988 and became a regular contributor to the food section in 2006.