Pho Vân

8557 Research #120, 832-5595
Daily, 10am-9pm

Pho Vân, a couple of doors down from Din Ho, is best known for its rich bowls of pho noodle soup, bun noodle bowls, and com rice plates. But lurking on the menu are four variations of bánh mì (grilled pork, grilled chicken, pork roll, and combo), all priced at $3.25. We sampled a couple of the sandwich offerings and were pleased.

The grilled pork was loaded with rich pork dripping in a savory, slightly sweet sauce. The combo had a schmear of pâté on the bottom, topped with slices of peppery pork roll. If we had any reservations, it might be with the bread, which resembled a Mexican bolillo roll more than a thin-crusted bánh mì roll, with a bit too much bread in the body of the sandwich. That aside, they were plump and tasty, with excellent vegetables.

This article appears in October 10 • 2008.

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Mick Vann is a retired Austin chef who is a food writer and restaurant critic, cookbook author, restaurant consultant, and recipe developer. He moonlights as a University of Texas horticulturist with a propensity for ethnic eats and international food, particularly of the Asian persuasion, but he also knows his way around a plate of soul food or barbecue.