Old San Francisco Steak House
8709 N. I-35, 835-9200Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11am-2pm; Dinner: Monday-Thursday, 5-10pm; Friday-Saturday, 5-11pm; Sunday, noon-8pm
Family fun is the main event at this kitschy restaurant that evokes the gay Nineties (the 1890s, that is). The entry way is chock-full of period artifacts on display, the walls of the dining room are appropriately decked with dark wood wainscoting, the carpet is red, the lights are dim. The tables groan under the weight of the giant blocks of Swiss and cheddar cheese served as complimentary amuse bouches before the meal. And then there is the girl in the swing. That’s right, folks, like something straight of an old burlesque show, the girl in the swing flies and twirls in breathtaking acts of playground daredevilry while the piano player merrily accompanies her with a tune. This is one steak house where you’ll want to bring the kids. And the steaks aren’t bad, either. A 16 oz. rib eye runs about $24 and is served with a baked potato and seasonal vegetables usually green beans or sautéed green and yellow squash. The meat is cooked just right and is delightfully tender. Recent modernizations to the typically safe surf ‘n’ turf menu include Soy-Glazed Salmon ($19) and Caribbean-inspired snapper ($23). Appetizers remain fairly typical. Shrimp cocktail ($9), Crab-Stuffed Mushrooms ($7.50), and oysters on the half-shell are the highlights.
This article appears in January 14 • 2005.
