1931 E. Oltorf, 444-4344
M-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun Noon-6pm New rule of thumb: If you want to learn about ethnic cuisine, find a small
lunch counter, preferably in the back of a family-run store. Most times, it’ll
be the closest you can get to somebody’s home kitchen without being arrested
for trespassing. Roadside barbecue shacks fit into this category, as do most
roving breakfast taco operations. If you can see the folks make the stuff,
you’ve hit the mother lode.
With five tables between the front window and olive oil aisle, the Austin
Gourmet Market serves up Lebanese variations on Mediterranean specialties
prepared as god intended — from twin hot plates in the back. The menu leans
toward dishes traditionally associated with Greek cooking (heavy on the lamb)
and an emphasis on quicker foods (sandwiches, filled pies) and meatless options
(falafel, four salads, Middle Eastern dips). Overall, the spicing tends to be
more subtle than one might expect, but the delicate spices work well to enhance
the different textures of the dishes. The lamb shawrma, for example,
comes dressed with a velvety tahini sauce that calls attention to the meat’s
spicing rather than itself. The desserts — baklava, nut rolls, and other
experiments in honey, pistachios, and phyllo — merit high praise for texture,
taste, and incredible addiction potential.
While you’re waiting for your order, do some casual shopping among their
widely varied import stock. Next time you need Lebanese orange blossom jam,
Hungarian plum butter, or sweet Greek pygmy eggplant preserves, you’ll know
where to go. –Paul M. Johnson
This article appears in November 3 • 1995 and November 3 • 1995 (Cover).