There’s something about the citrusy smack of a margarita that marries blissfully to the aggressive tones of Mexican cuisine. The cool sweetness of the margarita requires the solid, earthy flavors of Mexican masa, chile peppers, beans, and meat to neutralize its seductive smoothness. Indeed, margaritas without food can have disastrous results — there is simply no fate worse that a tequila hangover. Add to it the extra sugar from a margarita, and the unfortunate result may be a dry mouth and a day in bed if you’re lucky, but those who have suffered worse fates have been known to undergo a long margarita abstinence.
With the remembrance of margaritas past still fresh in my mind, I opted to back down from the margarita challenge. (I admit that pregnancy may also have had something to do with it.) But I volunteered myself as the designated driver for the Great Margarita Adventure, and while the other tasters were swilling their poisoned potions, I set about making my own degustation of the appetizers available at each of our stops.
I discovered that at most Mexican restaurants, you don’t need to order a full meal to experience the flavors the kitchen has to offer. Instead, appetizers often suffice, since they usually feature miniature renditions of the more generously portioned entrées. Although pimento-flecked yellow queso predominated at most of our stops (I confess a weakness for the stuff, even though I know it comes from Sysco in a preformed block, labeled “Mexican melting cheese”) we discovered that many of our favorite margarita restaurants also serve up excellent, satisfying appetizers. These are usually cheaper than a full meal, but provide ample sustenance and more variety for light eaters.
It came as no surprise that Fonda San Miguel won everyone’s vote for best apps. Their chile con queso stood out among the rest. Made with real poblano chiles, and several different white cheeses, this filling little botana was the runaway favorite at our table that evening. Also delicious were their tostadas de cochinita pibil topped with their zesty black beans and generous pieces of slow-cooked achiote pork, and the tender fried calamari served with chipotle aioli. The red and green salsas offered with the chips were among the best we tasted. Those who might fear the sticker shock of a full meal at Fonda will want to consider the margarita-and-appetizer route, where two can dine comfortably for under $45.
We also discovered filling and fun appetizers at Z’Tejas. Their fried oyster shooters were both crispy and juicy with an intensely oceanic flavor. The crawfish cakes, although bready, nevertheless stood their ground, armed with the richly blended flavors of an étouffée. Z’Tejas’ happy hour half-off appetizer specials from 5-7pm, moreover, helped sweeten the deal.
Ninfa’s on Sixth Street serves a lovely Fiesta platter appetizer, composed of their stellar grilled fajita nachos (wherein each chip is carefully piled with refried beans, cheese, fajita meat, and guacamole), flautas, fried jalapeños, quesadillas, and a bowl of queso. Their signature green chile salsa is creamy, soothing, and absolutely divine on a chip chasing down a swig of Ninfa’s respectable top shelf margarita.
Another place with great nachos is Nuevo Leon. Although a little messier than the Ninfa’s rendition, these nachos nevertheless have all the right components to make a satisfying meal: hearty refried beans, cheese, full-flavored skirt steak, pickled jalapeños, and fresh guacamole.
Taco X-press won extra points for charm from all of us. This funky little South Austin hangout serves wholesome, homey-tasting tacos and gorditas filled with favorites such as al pastor and barbacoa.
Finally, the quesadillas at Miguel’s La Bodega earned praise from our table for their moist chicken and perfect spicing.
This article appears in August 25 • 2000.
