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In Texas, eschewing barbecue traditions is risky, but Valentina’s pulls off the rare feat of marrying tortillas and smoked meats with such finesse that even the grouchiest salt-and-pepper stalwarts could be convinced that fusion isn’t a dirty word. Bonus points for bringing barbecue into the realm of breakfast and offering the best pre-11am brisket in town.
This article appears in May 6 • 2016.
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