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Tyson Cole is a man of restraint: Despite the perennial praise and packed houses, he mostly expanded his empire over time by refining his interpretation of Japanese food and letting his talented team riff on it in other locations (or, now, cities). Uchiko is remarkably consistent, precisely because it funnels creativity through a precise editor’s eye. It simply never disappoints.
This article appears in June 14 • 2019.
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