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If you can’t stand the heat, get out of this kitchen. Chef Thai Changthong makes no concessions to milder palates in incendiary dishes like papaya salad and Chinese broccoli, but the flavor is never dulled in the rush of endorphins. If it gets too darn hot, no worries, you can always cool down with one of their inventive saké cocktails.
This article appears in May 6 • 2016.
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