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There is simply not enough space here to explain the level of deliciousness served at this beloved Thai and Laotian food truck, in dishes like tom yum goong, hat yai fried chicken, and khoa soi dumplings. They’ve just closed for the summer, but the whole city is holding their collective breath for a quick return.
This article appears in First Plates 2021 (Supplement) and First Plates 2021.
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