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It wasn’t enough for Jack Gilmore to make his Jack Allen’s Kitchen a Texas contemporary-dining success story. He had to go and expand to seafood? Oh, shut up and pass us another fresh oyster before we tuck into this sustainably caught and nicely roasted catch of the day. Perennial cioppino and a damn fine bar program, too.
This article appears in First Plates 2021 (Supplement) and First Plates 2021.
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