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At this stunner, old-school can mean a few things: the care they put into their modern takes on Chinese classics like mapo tofu, clay pot pork belly, and congee; the hip-hop vibe that informs everything from the decor to the soundtrack; even the cheeky names of the cocktails. Put together, they remind us that dining out should be fun. That’s about as old-school as you can get.
This article appears in May 5 • 2017.
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