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Perhaps the name says it all: Referencing Chinese slang for “clever/wily,” this modern Chinese brasserie could be disguising itself as a standard take-out spot. But there’s nothing run-of-the-mill about it, what with the dim sum cart (and brunch!), hip-hop always on blast, and brisket fried rice. An eatery serving #dopechinese is what the next generation of American Chinese food looks (and tastes) like.
This article appears in June 14 • 2019.
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