If a seafood-craving Goldilocks had broken into Ky¯oten Sushiko, she would have found everything exactly to her liking. From the not-too-flashy decor to phenomenal omakase dinners (reservations only, mind you, Fancy), owner/chef Otto Phan has created a dining experience that’s just right.

This article appears in May 4 • 2018.

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