The sultry dining room’s 20-foot custom hearth exalts the eponymous Greek goddess at this Emmer & Rye sibling restaurant. Smoky flavors abound, and bright bites like rockfish crudo with smoked blackberry pair with expert-level transformations of fresh and foraged produce – an umami crown jewel is the lion’s mane mushroom with blackened koji and charcoal. Hestia’s draw is a soulful atmosphere, and, of course, Tavel Bristol-Joseph’s striking kakigōri.
This article appears in First Plates 2021 (Supplement) and First Plates 2021.