Walk into this bustling restaurant at literally any time between open and close and you’re immediately hit with a cacophony of conversation, sizzling plates, and clanking paloma cocktails. All of these converge into a wonderful mélange, from the acutely attentive and tireless staff to that short rib salpicon with the cheesy rice. The vibe here is one of community, and while Joanna and Joel Fried’s Mexican-inspired cafe references the “Lost City of Gold,” perhaps an even better descriptor for this oasis of consistently delicious food is “the Golden One.”
This article appears in June 14 • 2019.