This tiny hole-in-the-wall seems airlifted directly from a Chinese street corner. The kitchen rolls out inexpensive yet first-class meat dumplings and makes hand-cut noodles for their warming soups (beef and lamb) and stir fries. The stunning green onion pancakes flake apart like butterfly wings, while lamb skewers are seasoned with plenty of salt and curry.

This article appears in February 6 • 2015.

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