Goldee’s Bar-B-Q in Fort Worth is old-school Texas barbecue even though it has barely turned 4 years old. This is the kind of place that made smoked meats in the Lone Star State famous.
Due to circumstances beyond my control, I pulled into the dirt parking lot an hour before closing time on a cold and damp Sunday afternoon. The usual line out the front door had dissipated.
Not unexpectedly, this close to “sold out” time, all they had left was turkey and chopped beef. The pleasant young man at the butcher block said they always try to at least have chopped beef until actual closing time at 3pm.
Goldee’s chopped beef is no consolation prize. It is lean with a well-balanced flavor. This is not a stew of barbecue sauce and bits and pieces. The pile of beef trimmings had just enough sauce to add a tangy spiciness without overwhelming the essences of the flavor.
The side dishes were no afterthought either. House-made white bread with a slight sweetness enhances every meal. The mustard-based potato salad is outstanding, with big chunks of red onions and veggies. The cheesy grits were smooth and flavorful. It’s worth the trip just for the warm bread pudding, which is only available on Sunday.
It’s encouraging that a new generation of pitmasters is continuing the legacy of Texas barbecue. I want a barbecue joint, not a barbecue restaurant. Goldee’s is the real deal, an honest-to-goodness, roadside barbecue joint.
Goldee’s Bar-B-Q is at 4645 Dick Price Rd., kind of out of the way on the southeast side of Fort Worth, and was chosen as No. 1 on Texas Monthly’s 2021 list of the 50 Best BBQ Joints. The counter is open Friday through Sunday from 11am to 3pm or until sold out. Get there early, and try the chopped beef. It’s really good.
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This article appears in February 28 • 2025.
