Lafitte’s steps climb into Galveston’s blue sky, and lead to one of the island city’s favorite legends.

The pirate Jean Lafitte was the first to bring notoriety to the barrier island, but not the last. With a fresh pardon as payment for his service at the Battle of New Orleans, Lafitte set up a lucrative smuggling business on Galveston Island in 1817. James Bowie was a customer.

Credit: Photos by Gerald E. McLeod

Lafitte’s colony on the island grew to around 2,000 living in hundreds of homes and warehouses. The most opulent of the structures was Lafitte’s home, Maison Rouge.

In 1821, the U.S. Navy arrived to shut down the nefarious enterprise. Lafitte admitted defeat, burned the community, and sailed away into Gulf legend to survive for generations through the stories of his virtues and vices. Unsuccessful treasure hunters have scoured the sands looking for the riches that Lafitte left behind.

The closest thing to a surviving marker of Lafitte’s existence on Galveston Island is a set of concrete steps that he never walked on. In the 1870s, a house was built over the remains of the pirate’s wine cellars. The house’s weathered front stairs and basement walls mark the spot.

Lafitte’s steps are at 1417 Harborside, in a pocket park flanked by a yellow house and a metal shop. Breaks in the fence around the park allow easy access to the stairs and the chance to stand where the most famous Gulf Coast pirate once stood.


1,216th in a series. Collect them all. Day Trips, Vol. 2, a book of “Day Trips,” is available for $8.95, plus $3.05 for shipping, handling, and tax. Mail to: Day Trips, PO Box 33284, South Austin, TX 78704.

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Gerald E. McLeod joined the Chronicle staff in November 1980 as a graphic designer. In April 1991 he began writing the “Day Trips” column. Besides the weekly travel column, he contributed “101 Swimming Holes,” “Guide to Central Texas Barbecue,” and “Guide to the Texas Hill Country.” His first 200 columns have been published in Day Trips Vol. I and Day Trips Vol. II.