From the grotto’s porch, visitors have a panoramic view of the La Plata River Valley. One of three rivers that join at Farmington, N.M., the river created an ancient valley that supported ancestral Pueblo farmers. Credit: Photos by Gerald E. McLeod

When it comes to unusual and strange, there is no shortage of overnight accommodations around the world that fit in that category. If you have a mind to, you can stay overnight in a hotel made of ice, a treehouse, an old RV, or a teepee.

From the grotto’s porch, visitors have a panoramic view of the La Plata River Valley. One of three rivers that join at Farmington, N.M., the river created an ancient valley that supported ancestral Pueblo farmers. Credit: Photos by Gerald E. McLeod

On the outskirts of Farmington, N.M., Kokopelli’s Cave is about as one-of-a-kind lodging as a bed & breakfast can get.

From the man-made cave’s porch on the side of a sandstone cliff, guests gaze out over the expansive La Plata River Valley. Golden eagles alight from their nest on the yellow and red cliff wall and soar below the cave entrance. If it weren’t for the chairs and table on the deck, even the eagles would have a hard time spotting the cave entrance.

More than 25 years ago Bruce Black, an oil company geologist and former 2-star admiral, began working on the concept of placing his office in a cave on a cliff on the edge of Chokecherry Canyon Recreation Area. It took about two weeks just to excavate the grotto in the sandstone and then several more months to lower by crane the building materials over the side of the cliff.

After five years of working on the cave, Black decided to rent the remote apartment as one of the most unusual lodging opportunities in the world.

Furnished in a mix-and-match style of modern American furniture, the man-made cave has the feel of spending the night in a friend’s cabin, except you’re on a cliff 300 feet above the valley. The sandstone walls turn the light into a soft glow. The temperature in the grotto naturally stays between 68 and 74 degrees year round.

Cut into the colorful sandstone about 300 feet above the valley and 70 feet below the rim of the canyon, the 1,700-square-foot room comes fully equipped. Wrapped around a large sandstone pillar in the center of the cave are a full kitchen, Jacuzzi tub and shower, and an indoor replica of a Native American kiva, with a separate large bedroom off to the side.

The ceiling and walls are rough and jagged stone like a natural cave with layers of sandstone adding color and texture. Most of the electrical wiring and plumbing are hidden under the carpeted floor. The cave has all of the comforts of home, including a washer and dryer.

Gayle Davis, the rental manager, says that the apartment can comfortably sleep six and that they have had slightly larger family groups stay in the cliff dwelling. There is a two-night minimum stay which includes breakfast and a bottle of wine. You’ll want to bring supper with you since it’s a rugged haul over dirt roads through the wilderness area back to civilization.

The master bedroom is spacious and comfortable with a private porch. There also is a futon in the living room off the fully equipped kitchen. For a night of storytelling, guests can gather around the indoor kiva with a wood-burning fireplace.

Speaking of a haul, it’s quite a hike down a narrow, rock pathway to the front door of the hideaway. Leave your big, rolling suitcase in the car or at home, and just bring a small overnight bag.

Although the trails are a good distance from the cave entrance, guests may pass the off-the-highway vehicles coming through the park. The Bureau of Land Management’s Chokecherry Canyon and Glade Run recreation areas are some of the top playgrounds in the country for ATV and dune buggies. There is also a section set aside for mountain biking and equestrian trails.

Kokopelli’s Cave is open to visitors from March through November. There is a two-night minimum for each stay. For information, go to www.kokoscave.com.


Gerald McLeod has been traveling around Texas and beyond for his “Day Trips” column for the past 24 years. Keep up to date with his journeys on his archive page. Day Trips, Vol. 2, a book of “Day Trips,” is available for $8.95, plus $3.05 for shipping, handling, and tax. Mail to: Day Trips, PO Box 40312, South Austin, TX 78704.

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Gerald E. McLeod joined the Chronicle staff in November 1980 as a graphic designer. In April 1991 he began writing the “Day Trips” column. Besides the weekly travel column, he contributed “101 Swimming Holes,” “Guide to Central Texas Barbecue,” and “Guide to the Texas Hill Country.” His first 200 columns have been published in Day Trips Vol. I and Day Trips Vol. II.