Doc’s Hot Links in Gilmer doesn’t make an ordinary sausage. East Texas hot links are a breed apart from other Texas-made sausages.

The mixture of ground beef cheek, tongue meat, and spices is loosely stuffed into the casing and tied off every three inches, making links that are short and stubby. They’re tasty with or without the restaurant’s Tabasco-like hot sauce, but they’re better with saltine crackers than with white bread.

Doc’s doesn’t look like much from the outside, or on the inside for that matter. But don’t let looks fool you. It’s not uncommon for all of the seats to be filled around the U-shaped counter.

Charlie Hasselbach, a German butcher in Pittsburg, Texas, gets the credit for originating this East Texas delicacy in 1897. His meat market evolved into a restaurant that passed to Gene Warrick and now to his descendants.

“I like them both,” said Joe Bridges, as he stood in Doc’s parking lot with five pounds of hot links destined for his grill in Dallas. “Since the old man died, Pittsburg’s links aren’t as good as they used to be. I always get Doc’s links when I visit family.”

Doc’s Hot Links is at 208 S. Wood St. (U.S. 271) in Gilmer, 25 miles north of Longview. Pittsburg is 20 miles north of Gilmer. Go judge for yourself.

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Gerald E. McLeod joined the Chronicle staff in November 1980 as a graphic designer. In April 1991 he began writing the “Day Trips” column. Besides the weekly travel column, he contributed “101 Swimming Holes,” “Guide to Central Texas Barbecue,” and “Guide to the Texas Hill Country.” His first 200 columns have been published in Day Trips Vol. I and Day Trips Vol. II.