Pizzitola’s BBQ is an East Texas-style barbecue joint with a funny name in the heart of Houston. You can smell the smoke all the way to the Katy Freeway.
From the outside, Pizzitola’s doesn’t look like much. It’s in a low, bright, red-and-white corrugated tin building with a beat-up asphalt parking lot. Inside, there are a dozen or so tables and an antique bar at the far end that looks out of place.
It was midafternoon on a Thursday and I had the televisions hanging from the ceiling that were tuned to Fox News to myself. Ribs are the signature dish, so I ordered a rib sampler plate – ribs, brisket, and sausage.
While I sipped a cold adult beverage and waited on my order, Lexy, the afternoon manager, told me a little about the place. The joint was established in 1935 by John and Leila Davis and originally served the black community. They had the red-brick smoking pits built.
Jerry Pizzitola bought the place in the early Seventies. He has replaced nearly everything except the intricate wooden bar, the smoker, and the recipes. His son, Jerry Jr., now runs the place. Lexy showed me the 76-year-old smoker in the center of the small kitchen. With two big, iron doors, it looks as solid as Fort Knox. The smell of the East Texas hickory smoke washed over me.
The big platter of smoked meat, mustard potato salad, and pinto beans arrived to interrupt our conversation. The sausage is coarse-ground, and Lexy said it comes from a company in Cistern, Texas. It is served in deliciously juicy medallions that accent the white bread. The thin barbecue sauce is presented warm in a dipping bowl.
The pork ribs are truly something to be proud of. The meat is so tender it falls off the bone without being dry. As good as the ribs were, I loved the brisket. The juicy beef is cut-with-a-fork tender. No, no – I loved the ribs more because they were so meaty. Well, maybe I liked the brisket better because it had such a pleasant beefy flavor.
Oh, I can’t decide. Both cuts of meat were great, and the platter had enough left over to fill a good-sized doggie bag. The waitress brought a hot, wet towelette for me to use instead of licking my fingers. I topped off the meal with a cup of fresh banana pudding. Am I in East Texas heaven?
Pizzitola’s BBQ is at 1703 Shepherd Dr., a block south of the Katy Freeway (I-10). At most meal times, especially during lunch and weekends, you will have to wait for a table or order to go. The counter is open Monday through Saturday from 11am to 8pm. To place an order, call 713/227-2283 or view the menu at www.pizzitolas.com.
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This article appears in August 12 • 2011.
