Ira Kennedy and Enchanted Rock are two defining symbols of the
Texas Hill Country. The pink granite mount’s rugged beauty has endured for
centuries, while Kennedy left a career in the city to pursue a dream in the
hills like the pioneers.

Enchanted Rock Magazine has become Kennedy’s western frontier. The
48-page monthly publication is a treasure of travel tips, history, and news
about the Fredericksburg and Llano area. “I’ve never worked so hard for so
little and enjoyed it so much,” Kennedy says.

The magazine began as a newsletter to share stories and history gathered after
more than two decades of research. The first four-page issue appeared in
February 1994 with a cover story on the first people to inhabit the rock. From
there it grew to include tales of Texas Rangers and Sunday drives. “I’m going
to tell the history of Fredericksburg piece by piece,” Kennedy says.

At first the newsletter was available by subscription only, as Kennedy
continued to work as an advertising consultant. But within the first six months
its size doubled and by the last issue of the first year – when stories about
Enchanted Rock’s history and legends proved attractive to locals and tourists –
the newsletter had become a magazine and a full-time job. The topics cover
everything from history to geology, from barbecue to bed-and-breakfast inns.
Besides being a travel guide, Enchanted Rock Magazine preserves
colorful local history. “You won’t read about Luckenbach in a history book,”
Kennedy says.

Looking more like a rancher than an editor, Kennedy takes a skeptic’s view of
legends that swirl around Enchanted Rock like foul winds. When asked about a
story that says the Indians believed that the creaking sound of the rocks
contracting on cold nights was the moaning of an ancient chief’s spirit, which
was banished to the rock after the chief made the gods angry by sacrificing his
daughter, Kennedy’s hair bristles.

The Plains Indians did not sacrifice people, Kennedy says – at least not their
own kind. Having known about the rock for generations, the Indians understood
nature better than most people think. The truth, Kennedy adds, is that the rock
was sacred ground to the Indians. They were not afraid of it, but according to
the Comanche and Tonkawas, one must be purified before stepping onto the rock.

As you approach Enchanted Rock on FM965 between Llano and Fredericksburg, it
invokes a spiritual sense of awe that is hard to explain. The rock fills the
horizon like a sleeping giant with a life all its own. It is this spirit that
pulled Kennedy back to the Hill Country from an advertising career in New York
City.

Born in nearby San Saba, Kennedy discovered Enchanted Rock while studying at
UT in the 1970s before the area became a state park. Since then, he has made it
his life’s mission to learn all he can about the inspiring mount. Along the way
he has attracted some very talented people to help the magazine. Buck Burkle’s
cover art of Indians, wildlife, and Willie Nelson are as collectible as the
prose inside the magazine. Stories by Dale Fry, Charles Tischler, Kenn Knopp,
and cowboy-poet Frank Hill round out the entertaining and informative
publication. Even the advertisements are a good source of travel tips.

Copies of Enchanted Rock Magazine are available at many retail outlets
around Fredericksburg and Llano. It is also available on Austin newsstands. For
subscription information, call 800/865-6163.

Note: Enchanted Rock State Park has initiated a policy of closing the
park when it reaches its limit of visitors. On most weekends the park reaches
capacity by noon and does not allow visitors in until 5pm. This new policy
turns away irate tourists who have driven for two or more hours in their Chevy
Suburban full of screaming kids who desperately need a day in the country. Area
ranchers have to deal with the overflow. It is a very volatile situation, and,
remember, if someone asks you to get off their property, it is their right to
do so.

Coming up this weekend…

4th Annual Granite Gripper Rock Climbing competition will bring over
200 climbers to Enchanted Rock, 8am, Sat., Oct. 21.
210/599-7687

Heritage Day in Llano celebrates the historic jail’s 100th birthday and
bygone days with entertainment on the courthouse square,
Oct. 21.
915/247-5354.

The Haunted Opry in Burnet promises a sensory experience in the old
theatre on the courthouse square, Oct. 21-31. 512/756-2217.

– Gerald E. McLeod

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Gerald E. McLeod joined the Chronicle staff in November 1980 as a graphic designer. In April 1991 he began writing the “Day Trips” column. Besides the weekly travel column, he contributed “101 Swimming Holes,” “Guide to Central Texas Barbecue,” and “Guide to the Texas Hill Country.” His first 200 columns have been published in Day Trips Vol. I and Day Trips Vol. II.