Robert Oberhellmann invites you on a wine-tasting
journey at the Bell Mountain/Oberhellmann Vineyards, part of a tour that
explores the ancient process of viticulture. This little winery north of
Fredericksburg is steeped in the German wine-making traditions, but built on
the pioneering spirit of the Texas Hill Country.
Oberhellmann was one of the pioneers of the renaissance of Texas wines in the
1970s. His dream of owning a winery was actually planted in the late Sixties
when a Frenchman suggested that grapes be grown in Texas, and while traveling
here on business, Oberhellmann noticed the similarities between the land and
the wine-growing regions of Europe. He purchased a neglected Hill Country ranch
in 1973, and construction on the first buildings began in 1974. Working in ice
cream-processing science gave him the background to study German wine-making,
and he began clearing the rough Hill Country terrain to experiment with
grapevines in 1975.
It wasn’t until 1985 that Oberhellmann released his first wines for sale. In
the decade since, the winery has produced some world-class wines. The 1992
Chardonnay is surpassed only by the 1990 release that is now prized by
collectors. Oberhellmann thinks the 1993 release is “a cut above” both. The
wines are estate-bottled on the 56-acre vineyard, which rests 1,956 feet above
sea level. (Nearby Enchanted Rock is 1,825 feet.)
Over the years, Oberhellmann has become philosophical about the business,
realizing that not everyone may enjoy his product. An appreciation for wine
comes with an educated palette, he says; “the general population was raised on
Coca-Cola.”
The best way to judge the superior maturation of Bell Mountain wines for
yourself is to visit the winery. The tasting room is open between March 1 and
mid-December on Saturdays, 10am-5pm with tours at 11am, 1pm, and 3pm.
As you drive up to the winery (14 miles north of Fredericksburg off TX16), you
may be surprised to see pine trees towering over the road in a land of junipers
and prickly pear cacti. The building at the end of the road resembles a
European chalet, with a patio on one side and wine-making equipment on the
other. Besides being one of the oldest, it is one of the most scenic of Texas
wineries.
A visit to Bell Mountain almost demands a drive down the Willow City Loop, one
of the most beautiful Hill Country drives any time of year. The road moves from
creek bottoms to rocky peaks as it winds 13 miles around Bell Mountain. A trail
(not on most maps) joins FM1323 and winds north from Willow City to TX16,
21/2 miles north of the winery.
Enchanted Rock State Park is seven miles northwest of Bell Mountain. As of
Sept. 1, the park limits the number of visitors; once it has reached capacity,
no additional visitors are allowed until 5pm. The new rule is in effect on
weekends, holidays, and spring break weeks. For more information, call
915/247-3903.
For more information on Bell Mountain/Oberhellmann Vineyards, call
210/685-3297.
Coming up this weekend…
World Stone-Skipping Championships bounce on Onion Creek at the Salt
Lick Barbecue Restaurant on FM1826 outside of Driftwood, Oct. 8. The day will
be filled with music, skipping clinics, and exhibits. 512/847-2201.
Gruene Music Fest fills the historic district on the north side of New
Braunfels with local musicians and special guests, Oct. 7-8.
Ladies State Chili Championship adds spice to Luckenback, Oct. 7-8,
with the top three cooks going to the international cookoff in Terlingua.
210/997-3224.
Old Settlers’ Bluegrass & Acoustic Music Festival takes the stage
by the lake at Old Settlers’ Park, east of Round Rock on US79. Oct. 6, 6-11pm;
Oct.7, 12:30-11pm.
512/474-8527.
Oktoberfest offers a mixture of music, carnivals, and other fun at
Market Square in Fredericksburg, Oct. 6-7. 210/997-4810.
Coming up…
Italian Festival in the little town of Italy, south of Dallas on I-35,
features a spaghetti sauce cookoff and more, Oct. 14. 214/483-6198.
Cajun Catfish Festival in Conroe – they’ll be eating Cajun food and listening to Zydeco around the courthouse
lawn, Oct.13-15.
409/756-6644. – Gerald E. McLeod
This article appears in October 6 • 1995 and October 6 • 1995 (Cover).
