Ratcliff Recreation Area quietly celebrated its 60th birthday this year. But
isn’t that how you would expect a secluded campground deep in the heart of the
161,497-acre Davy Crockett National Forest to honor the passing of another
year?

The fertile and densely forested area east of Crockett has been occupied by
humans for centuries. Indians established permanent villages in the area. El
Camino Real
(The King’s Highway) followed Indian trails from Mexico,
bringing the Spanish and French to northeast Texas. When Texas became a state
in 1846, the land was opened to settlers and scalawags.

Until 1899, the vast pine stands of East Texas remained virtually untouched
by man, but then came the Central Coal and Coke Company of Kansas City,
Missouri. Nicknamed “Four C,” the company bought 120,000 acres of pine forest
and began clear-cutting. By 1902, the mill at Ratcliff was producing 350,000
feet of lumber per day.

At its peak, 10,000 people resided at the mill and nearby Ratcliff. By 1920,
the mill had processed all the commercial timber and closed down. All that
remains of the operation is the mill pond and the brick foundation.

In 1934, the federal forest service established four national forests in
Texas. The forest service’s management of the second-growth forest preserved it
for use as a local crop, recreational uses, experiments with land management,
and watershed conservation.

When the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) arrived in 1936 to build the
facilities at Ratcliff Recreation Area, the loblolly pines were less than six
feet tall. Besides planting thousands of seedlings, the CCC cleared a camping
area with 75 spots (27 with electricity) on the shore of the 45-acre lake that
was once the log pond for the sawmill. They also built a picnic shelter,
bathhouse, and hiking trails.

The Four C National Recreation Trail winds 20 miles through the forest from
Ratcliff Lake to the Neches Overlook. Much of the trail follows abandoned
tramway and logging roads built by Four C.

The Walnut Creek Campsite on a bluff is about midway on the trail and offers
tent pads, a shelter, and toilets. The Pond Campsite at Mile 13 has two tent
pads. At the end of the trail, Neches Bluff offers a panoramic view 100 feet
above the Neches River bottom lands.

Camping sites and picnic tables in the park are available on a first-come,
first-served basis. There is also a swimming beach, outdoor amphitheatre,
concession stand, boat rentals, and the brick remains of the sawmill. The lake
is stocked with bass, bream, and catfish, but only non-motorized boats are
allowed.

The Big Slough Canoe Trail follows a network of slow-moving waterways through
the Big Slough Wilderness northeast of the park. For more information on the
park or the forest, contact the Neches Ranger District, East Loop 304,
Crockett, TX 75835, 409/544-2046 or the Forest Headquarters, 701 N.
First St., Lufkin, TX 75901, 409/639-8501.

Coming up…

Crystal River Inn in San Marcos offers a New Year’s Eve party with gourmet
meals and accommodations, Dec. 30-31. 512/396-3739.

Mountain Biking in State Parks guide brochures are available from state parks
and REI, Inc. The free booklet lists the 42 parks that have trails open to
bikers. 389-8950 or http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us

Artifacts from La Salle’s ship will be on display at the Texas Maritime Museum
in Rockport through Jan. 2. Items from the excavation site in Matagorda Bay are
being collected at the museum before they go on a tour of Texas towns.
512/729-1271 or http://www.thc.state.tx.us

A note to readers: Bold and uncensored, The Austin Chronicle has been Austin’s independent news source for over 40 years, expressing the community’s political and environmental concerns and supporting its active cultural scene. Now more than ever, we need your support to continue supplying Austin with independent, free press. If real news is important to you, please consider making a donation of $5, $10 or whatever you can afford, to help keep our journalism on stands.

Gerald E. McLeod joined the Chronicle staff in November 1980 as a graphic designer. In April 1991 he began writing the “Day Trips” column. Besides the weekly travel column, he contributed “101 Swimming Holes,” “Guide to Central Texas Barbecue,” and “Guide to the Texas Hill Country.” His first 200 columns have been published in Day Trips Vol. I and Day Trips Vol. II.