They say that no Mexican meal is complete without some chile. Perhaps this
explains why the specialty of the house at Curra’s Grill, owned and operated by
the Curra family of Nueva Rosita, Coahuila (not far from the border southwest
of Piedras Negras), is jalape�os en escabeche. This relish of
herbed jalape�os and vegetables cooked in vinegar is a
south-of-the-border staple, used to add flavor and piquancy to tacos, eggs,
stews, enchiladas – just about any dish. But you are not likely to find this
recipe at the other “Mexican” restaurants in Austin, save possibly from a can,
because jalape�osen escabeche are not a TexMex condiment. Curra’s Grill specializes in interior Mexican cuisine – i.e., what Mexicans
eat – and this differs tremendously from what gringos commonly call Mexican
food. There are no bean burritos or Enchiladas Velveeta Mountain on the
restaurant’s menu, and the names of many of the dishes will sound unfamiliar:
molletes, caz�n, sincronizadas, chilorio, etc. Most of the
items that do have recognizable names do not resemble their trusty counterparts
at Chuy’s or Trudy’s. But it would be a mistake to let the exotic dinner list
dissuade you from visiting; Curra’s distinctive assortment of regional
specialties and unpretentious atmosphere provide an authentic taste of Mexico,
a nice change for folks tired of the same old tacos.
Perhaps the best time to visit the grill is in the morning, when it serves up
an exceptional selection of hearty breakfasts a la Mexicana. For the
ravenous, I suggest the restaurant’s twist on steak and eggs, huevos a la
Curra ($4.25). Next to a helping of refried pinto beans sprinkled with
fresh queso ranchero (farmer’s cheese) comes an order of carne
guisada, or chunks of lean beef in a tasty sauce, top-ped by a couple of
fried eggs – perfect with some of the escabeche. Or you might try the
huevos a la alba�il ($2.75). This common Mexican dish, the name
of which literally means “bricklayer’s eggs,” seems to have as many variations
as cooks who prepare it. At Curra’s, two eggs are smothered in a rich red chile
sauce, which is described as being composed of pasilla but looks and
tastes more like an ancho or guajillo concoction.
Feeling adventurous? How do two tortillas topped by eggs, chipotle
sauce, and bananas, served on a bed of black beans, sound? This scrumptious
Mexican-Caribbean creation is Curra’s unique rendition of huevos
motule�os ($3.50), a particular favorite in the Yucat�n
peninsula. On the other hand, if you feel more comfortable eating something
you’re familiar with, then fill up on a plate of migas ($3.40), huevos
rancheros ($2.75), or a few breakfast tacos ($0.95 each), which are made with
the restaurant’s heavenly homemade corn tortillas (you won’t find the flour
type in restaurants south of Monterrey).
Curra’s also offers a number of light lunch possibilities. Be sure to start
off your midday meal with an agua fresca, Mexico’s natural Kool-aid.
Made with fresh fruit, water, and sugar, Curra’s aguas (95 cents each)
come in a number of tempting flavors (depending on the day), including
cantaloupe (agua de mel�n), pineapple (agua de
pi�a), and watermelon (agua de sand�a). For eats,
don’t miss the fish ceviche (small $2.95, large $4.95), prepared in traditional
Mexican style: blanched chunks of fish are mixed with cilantro, lime juice, and
tomato juice, then topped with a wedge of avocado to complete the delicious and
healthy treat. Other plates reasonably low in fat include pescado or
pollo Yucat�n (fish or chicken seasoned with achiote and cooked
in a banana leaf), as well as the most famous dish of Veracruz, pescado a la
Veracruzana – a large filet smothered in a tomato sauce with olives and
vegetables.
For dinner, I recommend the puerco adobado (pork in adobo sauce –
$9.98). Adobo, a thick sauce that usually includes cinnamon, clove, and
oregano, is popular throughout Mexico, eaten with eggs, vegetables, and meats.
At Curra’s, it’s used as a barbecue sauce, coated over a large grilled
tenderloin to impart a delicate but unforgettable flavor. Other interesting
carnes include Curra‘s puntas de filete (beef tips in chipotle
sauce topped with Monterey Jack cheese), and steak ranchero. All entr�es
come with corn tortillas, rice, and a serving of steamed vegetables covered
with fresh dill, an unorthodox but savory side dish.
Many people who visit Curra’s Grill will recognize the building as the former
location of G�ero’s Taco Bar. In light of the increasing popularity of
Mexican food, this seems like a natural progression. G�ero’s won a place
in the hearts of Austin diners by serving TexMex with a hint of interior
Mexican flavor. Now, in the same kitchen, Curra’s attempts to take us one step
closer to the heart of Mexican cuisine. Though not without room for improvement
(the shrimp a la margarita is a bit heavy on the Cointreau, and
currently they are not offering a mole dish – a huge Mexican favorite), the
family-run grill offers a fairly faithful sampling of the half million or so
inimitable recipes of Mexico. So if you’re interested in exploring some of the
cuisine that spawned TexMex, CalMex, and any other Mex you’ve tasted, take a
trip to the Curra’s grill – and don’t forget the jalape�os en
escabeche. n
This article appears in June 23 • 1995 and June 23 • 1995 (Cover).