by Tom Philpott
1224
South Congress, 444-7770
Breakfast and Lunch daily, 7am-3pm
Dinner: Wed-Sat 6-10:30pm Mid-priced neighborhood cafes lie at the heart of a city’s culinary life. San
Fransisco and New York house some of the greatest fine-dining establishments in
the world; yet without their magnificent array of ethnic eateries, diners,
pizza joints, and sandwich shops, those cities would never have earned their
unquestioned status as gardens of epicurean delight. The best of these smallish
restaurants provide affordable and well-made food to vast numbers of people,
often within walking distance form their homes and offices.
As Austin continues its expansion, we can probably expect a preponderance of
celebrated chefs who will delight our palates, thus easing the pain of their
rigorous demands on our pocketbooks. But we will be lucky indeed if, as a
respite from high-toned downtown dining, more cafes with the good cooking and
pleasant ambiance of El Sol y La Luna crop up close to our residences. Located
in the old diner space of the Austin Motel, El Sol sits nearly in the center of
the tree-lined and hilly neighborhoods just south of the river.
The restaurant’s atmosphere is relaxed, comfortable, and yet vibrant: white
walls adorned with tasteful Mexican and Central American-style paintings.
Wherever one looks – whether to the painted concrete floor or to the table
settings – one finds the restaurant’s namesake sun and moon images, as
portrayed by the artist Anna Salinas. A sea of suns and moons may sound
overbearing, but the effect is decidedly fun and stylish.
The menu hits the typical Tex-Mex high points – enchiladas, chalupas, migas,
flautas, tacos – but with much more flair and authentic Mexican flavor than the
usual grub served to soak up margaritas. The breakfast fare eerily resembles
that of Las Manitas, the longtime stalwart just blocks north on Congress
Avenue, but at least in imitating that Austin icon, the El Sol people got the
execution right. Austinites now have two quaint cafes in which to enjoy
lovely migas con hongos (with mushrooms), spicy huevos a la
Mexicana (eggs scrambled with chiles and onions), and the ever-popular
Central American breakfast (eggs any style with beans and sumptuous fried
plantains). And all well under five dollars, for good measure.
On the lunch menu, El Sol begins to break from Las Manitas (with the exception
of certain daily lunch specials, like the outstanding enchiladas de mole
that both places occasionally serve). A mere five dollars nets you a large
plate of enchiladas, napped either in a rich red sauce, combining the heat and
mild bitterness of ancho chiles with the slight sweetness of pur�ed
tomato; or, my favorite, a creamy avocado sauce that perfectly captures the
delicate flavor of that revered, unlikely fruit. These plates come with an
ample serving of impeccably prepared rice and beans.
El Sol also distinguishes itself in the beverage and dessert departments.
Every day the restaurant features aguas frescas, delicious thirst
quenchers made with freshly squeezed fruit juice. The flavors change with the
seasons – recent aqua frescas have featured watermelon and canteloupe,
and occasionally the cafe will serve what it calls aqua del sol, a
slightly sweet concoction flavored with beet juice. All of these drinks, along
with fresh-squeezed lemonade and orange juice, work beautifully with the mildly
hot food. As for dessert, I enjoy the cinnamon-laced, warm rice pudding, and
love the bright and tangy flavors harnessed in the mango sherbert.
All of the above-cited items can be ordered for dinner in addition to a
selection of pasta and fish dishes ($7.50-$8.50) that round out the evening
menu. These I found generally less pleasing than the Mexican fare, but still
well-prepared. The pasta primavera with chicken is a solid version of the old
Italian warhorse: fettucini in a reduced cream sauce with plenty of Parmesan
cheese, garnished with sliced red and green bell pepper. The dish was
satisfying, buoyed by flavorful chunks of grilled chicken, but it somehow
lacked the zest that would inspire future craving. Also, it tasted a bit too
much like something a home cook could patch together using ingredients from the
refrigerator. The fish saut�ed with lemon pepper proved more
interesting, although steamed and unseasoned slices of squash and carrot added
little to the plate.
Like the famous star from which it takes part of its name, this cafe shines
most brightly during the day. The menu may be somewhat derivative, but the
neighborhoodly aura, the good food, and the pretty setting make it one of the
most peaceful places to spend a morning or an afternoon in Austin. And with a
little work on the dinner entr�es, El Sol could become a favored evening
spot, as well. n
This article appears in September 29 • 1995 and September 29 • 1995 (Cover).