Ah, it’s the first weekend of the new year – and here comes Masa y Más to supercharge a certain section of South Lamar with the vibrant taste of Central Mexico.
The new taqueria will open on Friday, Jan. 6, starting off what we imagine will be a long, long run of deliciousness at the weird and sprawling corner of South Lamar & Mary.
You may recall that this venue was, for a long time, the original location of Austin’s Pizza – but now the site’s been revamped by Larry Perdido and Chuck Smith (of Moonshine and Hopdoddy fame, no less) along with partner and chef Roberto Campos, the place reborn as a counter-service restaurant with a welcoming dining room and covered patio.
[Note: Is it part of official City code that every decent dining spot in South Austin has to have a covered patio, or are we just dreaming? We elected you, Kirk – so get on that shit, willya?]
Of course, in this section of your Austin Chronicle, business and architecture is always rather secondary, isn’t it? Something something Daily Food, right? That’s why we’re most excited about chef Campos’ slow-roasted barbacoa from Guerrero, Mexico City-style suadero, birria rich with its Jalisco heritage, and – beyond the regionally redolent tacos – the papas rellenas, tortas, bowls, and a panoply of fresh, savor-abetting sides.
Also, the place is called Masa y Más for a reason: All the flour, yellow, and blue corn tortillas will be made in-house using methods passed down from chef Campos’ grandmother.
“At a young age I started supporting my family’s carros ambulantes (food carts) in Guanajuato, Mexico, kneading masa for my grandmother’s gorditas and chopping vegetables for my mom’s pico de gallo,” says chef Campos. “The recipes and ingredients you’ll find at Masa y Más represent not only my culture and roots but also my family’s deep traditions. My goal is for everyone who steps foot in my restaurant to experience a piece of my home.”
Now, we’re not sure precisely what beverage possibilities obtained in the talented chef’s childhood hacienda, but this new home of deep flavor will serve agua frescas, margaritas and other cocktails, and a curated selection of mezcal, tequila, rum, and Mexican-imported beers. So we reckon we’ll be eating and drinking in Austintatious pleasure in this bright joint at 1817 S. Lamar, which is open six days a week: Tue.-Thu., 11am-10pm; Fri.-Sat., 11am-12midnight; Sun., 8am-1pm.
Bonus for artlovers: One wall of Masa y Más showcases a colorful mural – an homage to chef Campos’ mother, Maria Concepcion – by Austin-based Peruvian artist Niz.
This article appears in December 30 • 2022.