BBQ the Texas Way
Austin Convention Center, Wednesday, March 18
There was no music and sadly no food, but this panel proved that Texans love talking about barbecue almost as much as they love eating it. Moderator and author Joe Nick Patoski, who claimed that the History Channel once called him a “barbecue historian,” kept things moving briskly from a history lesson to the often-argued sauce/no sauce dilemma. It was especially enjoyable to hear Rick Schmidt, owner of Kreuz Market in Lockhart – considered by many to be the best barbecue joint in the state – give his views on tradition, share his techniques, and offer an insider’s opinion on the business. National Public Radio’s Kitchen Sisters, being from the Bay Area, offered an outsider’s outlook, asking pertinent questions, while also describing how their latest book on Hidden Kitchens was inspired by messages they received from KUT listeners here in Austin. While everyone had a different response to Patoski’s question, “What is Texas barbecue?” it was Houston Press food critic (and former Chronicler) Robb Walsh who gave the most insightful answer: “With a couple different sources and a couple different styles, it’s easy to argue about.” When an audience member asked for recommendations of barbecue in Austin, a short list was offered before Patoski summed things by recommending a short trip to Lockhart. “It’s the epicenter of Texas barbecue,” he said.
This article appears in March 20 • 2009.