We’re spoiled for Mexican and Tex-Mex food here in Austin. We’ve got countless taco trucks operating across the city at all hours, providing late-night and early-morning sustenance to partiers, shift workers, and everyone in between. We’ve got a host of mom-and-pop restaurants, where you can chill on a Friday night with some enchiladas and some margs and launch the weekend. And we’ve got some truly special high-end interior Mexican restaurants, like Fonda San Miguel, Suerte, and El Naranjo, that showcase respectful treatment of high-end ingredients representing specific regional foodways. In short, the bar is high for newcomers to this particular dining space; Mexta, which opened Downtown during South by Southwest, is the latest entrant.
Founded by a quintet of entrepreneurs, Mexta (its name a mash-up of “Mexico” and “ATX,” signifying a blend of two cultures) is helmed by chefs Jonatan Gómez Luna Torres and Mikel Alonso, two decorated Mexico City chefs with impeccable pedigrees (Gómez Luna is an alumnus of Noma, and Alonso helms the Culinary Institute by Southwest University in El Paso; both chefs were recently awarded Michelin stars for their respective Mexico City restaurants, Le Chique and Biko). With credentials like those (and prices like these, like $19 guacamole), you’d expect a meal to have an effect that combines having your hair blown back, your skirt blown up, and your socks knocked off.
My spouse and I went for dinner on a Friday night, having made a reservation a few weeks in advance. Despite having planned ahead, we were surprised to see that the 140-seat dining room was only about half full.
Mexta prides itself on its diverse array of cocktails, with discrete sections for margaritas, palomas, and signature concoctions. My spouse, a mezcal lover, chose the Palomazo, a bright, citrusy classic with beetroot shrub that added visual interest and depth of flavor. I had the Cantarito, because despite not having a deep love of mezcal, I was intrigued by the combination of pineapple and tamarind Jarritos. It was extremely mezcal-forward, but the smoky flavor was tempered nicely by the sweet and tart fruit.
We opted for the Real One Guacamole with four house salsas as a starter; I couldn’t convince my spouse to get the chapulines (yep, grasshoppers) add-on (only $3!) It was a truly excellent guacamole, the silky avocado seasoned with green tomato, coriander, and onion ash. The salsas were also quite nice, but they were eclipsed by the guacamole. The appetizer came with three house-made corn tostadas presented standing in a little trough of dry black beans. There weren’t enough of them to accommodate all the dips, but they did provide a nice visual reminder of how many tortillas you’re eating in advance of your entrée.
The highlight of the meal was the Tikin Xic (pronounced “teekeen sheek”) salmon, a Yucatan-style preparation in which the fish is marinated with bitter orange, guajillo, and achiote before roasting. This dish absolutely sang; I don’t think I’ll ever be able to enjoy salmon prepared any other way.
And here’s where I confess that I took a wrong turn in selecting an entrée. Intrigued by the presence of a chipotle lobster roll on the menu, I took a chance. The less said about this dish, the better. The rubbery texture was a huge red flag, and it was devoid of any flavor, much less the kick of chipotle. I took two bites and was done. I really wish I’d ordered the chicken or a ceviche, or even the sous vide pork belly “encacahuatado,” which had seemed too rich and heavy for a hot summer night.
We split a flan for dessert and were surprised when it was served in cubes. It didn’t have much flavor and was, ultimately, a very boring end to what could have been an excellent meal. “It’s been a long time since we went to Fonda San Miguel,” my spouse said as we left. “We need to get back there soon.” I agreed.
I returned for a solo dinner at the bar on a rainy Wednesday night a few weeks later. I arrived a few minutes before 6pm and sat at the bar with a book. I returned to the paloma well and chose the Sin Fronteras, a paloma made with gin, grapefruit juice, and guava Jarritos. It was a little sweeter than I like my palomas, but I can imagine it going down really smoothly on a triple-digit day.
I was eating light, so I chose the shrimp aguachile from the raw section of the menu. Moments later, a staffer placed a stunningly gorgeous dish in front of me: two potato and chorizo tacos topped with a tangle of cucumber ribbons and radish and crowned with four gorgeous lime-marinated shrimp. The server poured the bright green aguachile sauce into the bowl; it added both a pop of color and the kicky brace of lime and chile to the dish. I very much enjoyed the mixture of textures and flavors. My only complaint about this meal was that it was so short. Thirty minutes elapsed from the time I sat down to the time I paid my bill, despite making a concerted effort to eat very slowly and put my utensils down between bites. I have spent more time in the drive-through at Whataburger.
Our previous visit was similarly speedy; we were in and out in an hour, which is a little off-putting. I’m not looking for a fast-casual tempo when I’m out for an upscale dinner. While the service was consistently friendly, informative, and professional, and patiently answered all of my (probably) annoying questions, the vibes were more churn and burn than “y’all stay a while.”
I wonder who the audience is for Mexta. Even though it professes to blend Mexican hospitality with Austin’s “vibrant culture,” I’m not sure Mexta accomplishes either of those stated goals. Its location at the Littlefield Building at Sixth and Congress isn’t entirely convenient for locals (valet is expensive and Downtown parking is a massive pain in the nalgas). The decor is inspired by a “full moon ceremony in Tamaulipas,” but the bronze and stone accents make it feel like a high-end casino simulacrum of Mexico. It feels like the kind of place you’d bring your visiting business associate who wants nice Mexican food and you don’t feel like Ubering to Fonda or El Naranjo.
In a city with ample upscale Mexican restaurants, newcomers to the scene must provide a convincing argument for diners to spend their time and money in their establishment. Even though there are some good arguments to be made, it’s unclear yet whether Mexta’s appeals to Austin’s dining public will be sufficiently persuasive.
Mexta
106 E. Sixth
This article appears in July 5 • 2024.