Impossible though it may seem, the miserable heat of the summer will eventually end. We’ll reach for our jackets and trade in our cold brew for hot coffee, and we’ll want some rib-sticking meals to warm our bodies and souls. That’s when Sami Sumeli, a new Georgian restaurant now open in Cedar Park, will truly be able to shine.
I visited Sami Sumeli on 90-degree August days, which required me to do some imaginative thinking. Hearty comfort grub isn’t what I crave during the hottest summer weather, and the restaurant’s menu emphasizes meat, carbs, and dairy. But mentally transporting myself to a crisp 60-degree day helped me appreciate its cozy fare from the nation of Georgia.
Located on the shores of the Black Sea just south of the Caucasus Mountains, Georgia straddles the Asia-Europe border and its cuisine includes Eastern European, Western Asian, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean flavors. Sami Sumeli calls itself a “Georgian European” restaurant, so the Eastern European vibes are especially noticeable here. On both of my visits I overheard several tables speaking Russian, and menu items like khrenovukha (horseradish-infused vodka) and syrniki (farmer’s-cheese pancakes) reflect those influences. But Sami Sumeli’s determination to show off the full breadth of Georgian cuisine is what makes this spot a standout for anyone curious about the food of this unique country.
Visually speaking, it leans in a very generic direction. It’s a strip mall restaurant that looks like a strip mall restaurant: neutral floor tiles, pendant lights, a logo mural along the wall, and colored chairs chosen to match said mural. There are even large TV screens hanging over the bar projecting screensaver-style images of global destinations. The overall effect is very Panera-coded with little in the way of ambience. Luckily, the service doesn’t follow this bland formula, as the staff proves knowledgeable about the menu and generally attentive.
Sami Sumeli’s beverage menu features a cocktail list that will look familiar to regular Austin bargoers – there’s a version of an Old Fashioned, a Moscow Mule, and a Bloody Mary. A few of these drinks incorporate pomegranate and tarragon, popular ingredients in Georgian cuisine, but otherwise, they’re not particularly on-theme. For me, a far more interesting aspect of Sami Sumeli’s drink program comes in the form of its wine list. Georgian wines count among my absolute favorite international offerings; I’m a huge orange wine lover, and if I have the opportunity to order a skin-contact, you better believe that I’m taking it. Many Georgian “white” wines are in fact “amber” skin-contact wines fermented in giant clay vessels known as qvevri, and this method results in longer finishes and deeper flavor dynamics. Sami Sumeli offers Georgian wines by the bottle, by the glass, and by the flight, and their white wine flight includes a dry amber that captivated me with its stone-fruit fragrance and spicy-bitter undercurrent. If you’re a red drinker, be sure to try a pour of Saperavi, a classic Georgian varietal with bright acidity and deep dark berry flavors.
Sami Sumeli is a standout for anyone curious about the food of this unique country.
The appetizer section of the menu includes traditional meat, cheese, and vegetable platters, along with a few Georgian specialties that are hard to find elsewhere. Lobio, a cold bean salad seasoned with herbs and finely chopped walnuts, is a refreshing starter, as is the phali flight of vegetable dips. Bitter spinach, sweet beets, and funky cabbage blended with garlic and walnuts make for an easy and mild snack, especially when paired with Sami Sumeli’s plush flatbread wedges.
Grilled skewers, a reflection of the Middle Eastern influence on Georgian cuisine, play a prominent role on the menu. I opted for the Lula Kebab, which consists of ground lamb meatballs smothered in caramelized onions and layered on top of a thin slice of lavash bread. Herbs like coriander and tarragon cut through the rich lamb in an appealing way, and although the meat eats a bit dry, the onions offer an extra boost of moisture and sweetness. The lavash is a puzzling addition to the plate; the slice isn’t large enough to use as a wrap, and the bread draws even more moisture away from the kebab. But I did appreciate the cabbage slaw served on the side, which provided a touch of crisp freshness.
Entrées at Sami Sumeli – like a rich beef stew and creamy chicken dishes served with large portions of rice – are very winter weather-appropriate. As are the items most commonly associated with Georgian cuisine: dumplings and bread boats. Khinkali, a Georgian take on soup dumplings, come neatly pleated with a sturdy knot on top; your server will instruct you to grab the knot, turn the dumpling upside down, delicately bite into it, suck out the broth, eat the meatball, and then discard the dough knot on your plate. The pastalike dough is tender and silky, the broth is salty and savory, and the meatball features punchy flavors of allium and herbs. A trace of acidity would be a welcome addition; I chose to order a side dish of sour cabbage, and alternating each khinkali bite with a cabbage bite helped me achieve a balanced taste experience.
Now we come to khachapuri, the most showstopping dish in Sami Sumeli’s repertoire. A sizable almond-shaped loaf of Georgian bread filled with soft and stretchy cow’s milk cheeses, a raw egg yolk, and a thick pat of butter arrived at my table, and my server told me to mix the butter and egg into the cheese before tearing away at the bread and swiping the pieces through the cheese mixture. This very hands-on dining style makes khachapuri a perfect order for families or groups of friends (or dates with a certain level of comfort and familiarity), but be warned that the process can get messy. The bread crust has an ideal level of crunch to carry the indulgent cheese, and the dairy mixture bursts with salt and fat. As with the khinkali, I would have appreciated some acidity to level out the richness, but when you’re ripping apart a huge loaf of cheesy bread, it’s hard to complain.
Sami Sumeli caters to a mostly local crowd and doesn’t seem interested in social media glamour or highbrow attention. Their food is warming and comforting, their wine list is stellar, and while a meal here is a tough sell in the height of summer, it’ll feel like an inspired choice once we feel that first burst of chilly late-autumn air.
Sami Sumeli
401 E. Whitestone Ste. A-101
This article appears in The 35th Annual Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Festival.