Scores on the four required sections of the state-mandated Texas Assessment of Knowledge and Skills tests fall short at Johnston. Every student must pass the TAKS to graduate high school. Considering the passing rates for all Johnston students, the gap between what students scored and what the state requires ranges from 4% to 14%. The gaps are even greater for subgroups of students, such as Hispanic, African-American, and economically disadvantaged (not shown). Credit: Photo courtesy of Denise Prince

Rabbit + Hat

Abigail King, founding partner of Club de Ville and Starlite, and chef Mat Clouser – who has worked in kitchens from Vespaio to Uchi and Kenichi – are behind this ephemeral, semiunderground dining experience hosted at East Side Stages. We attended the February event and were impressed and surprised by King and Clouser’s magic tricks.

Upon arrival we were escorted to a secluded courtyard lit with strings of lights. The attentive staff offered glasses of sparkling wine and Pimm’s cocktails while cool, loungey music filled the air as guests mingled with King, who personally welcomed every guest. Clouser and staff appeared bearing trays of passed appetizers: lavender-cured gravlax on sesame rice crisps; prosciutto-wrapped dates with toasted walnuts and sage, cayenne, and citrus zest; and bleu-cheese-stuffed olives and wilted radicchio. Inside, a scene reminiscent of a magical realist novel awaited: a long table in the middle of the cavernous space, impeccably set with dozens of candles, shimmering glassware, vintage dinnerware, fresh roses in tiny vases, and rabbit figurines tucked here and there. The four-course dinner that followed was just as delightful, combining seasonal ingredients in playful combinations that intrigued and delighted the palate, with wines to match selected by Sam Hovland of East End Wines. The starter – kale and dandelion salad with maroon carrots, roasted enoki mushrooms, and peppermint-skyr dressing – tasted as beautiful as it looked. Winter flavors mingled in the entrée, a chamomile- and maple-brined Niman Ranch spare rib with slow-braised collard greens and mashed sweet potatoes. “We assume that educated diners expect thoughtful sourcing of ingredients,” says King of their approach to using local ingredients. TRIO’s pastry chef Hillary Lynn Kirkton contributed superb breads and desserts; on this occasion we enjoyed seconds of her brown-sugar cake with grapefruit mousseline and ginger-citrus salad. The team looks forward to changing things up in the spring to include seasonal locations, but make sure you check it out soon as things are always evolving. “We love the idea of a pop-up restaurant, and as that was our original concept, we’re not willing to totally abandon that,” King adds. Now you see it; now you don’t.

To get on Rabbit + Hat’s list for events, e-mail Clouser at knivesandfire@yahoo.com.

This article appears in March 25 • 2011.

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Mexico City native Claudia Alarcón has made Austin home since 1984. She worked her way through college in the local restaurant industry, graduating from the University of Texas in 1999. She has been a Chronicle contributor for 15 years and presents lectures and workshops on topics related to the foodways of Mexico, both locally and internationally.