As the owners of la Barbecue, LeAnn Mueller and Alison Clem aren’t just partners in life – they’re partners in business. The business is smoked meat, and business is good.
Having grown up working at Louie Mueller, LeAnn Mueller hails from that famed family of barbecue purveyors in Taylor, and for the past nine years, she and Clem have brought that tradition of craft to Austin at la Barbecue. After years of operating out of a trailer parked at various locations around town, their hand-built business has finally found a permanent home.
The trailer was formerly housed at Quickie Pickie on East Cesar Chavez. The proprietors of la Barbecue were given 30 days to either buy the place or move out, forcing a decision. As chance would have it, a prime spot was available just a few blocks away.
“We were lucky enough that our friend Nathan [Hill], who owns White Horse, hooked us up with his real estate person,” Mueller said. “I was like, ‘What about Mongers?’ and the guy said ‘I happen to have that property.'”
The space is a manifestation of the two women who run it, showcasing a restaurant that’s all about friends and family.
With that, they had secured a location. (Seafood restaurant Mongers moved into the Vino Vino space in Hyde Park last summer.) The winter apocalypse delayed la Barbecue’s grand opening, but in May of this year, la Barbecue officially opened as a brick-and-mortar joint.
The space is a manifestation of the two women who run it. Everywhere you look, the eye lands on another piece of art the two commissioned or made. There are brand-new graphics along with care-worn photos, showcasing a restaurant that’s all about friends and family.
Step into the restrooms and prepare to be wowed – not what you’d expect from your typical barbecue place, but certainly in step with current-day East Austin. The walls of one are covered in art created by Xavier Schipani and inspired by Studio 54 in all its outrageousness, while the other features a collage of Mueller’s own photos, composed by Zuzu and tinted pink. Definitely try to visit both.
Up by the register, there are family photos and mementos from the Mueller clan. Mueller’s dad Bobby, who passed away in 2008, feels like an invisible presence, overseeing the proceedings. With her mother Trish having passed away earlier this year, it’s obvious that Mueller and Clem are carrying on an old family tradition.
With all this talk about the building, what about the food? Anyone who’s eaten at Louie Mueller will recognize what’s going on here, from the gratis piece of delicious beef put on your tray as you order to the salt and pepper rub that’s more than enough flavoring for the standard bearer, the brisket. The meats feature the usual selection one would expect, but the sides venture out a bit from a more traditional menu. While there are straightforward offerings like potato salad and pinto beans, the chipotle coleslaw and shells and cheese add some interesting options.
The restaurant is not the only venture these two have cooking. During the pandemic, Red Rocket Weiner Wagon opened up, inspired by the red hot dogs from the Taylor Meat Company. The homemade chili and kimchi show off Asian flavors inspired by the couple’s travels. The wagon now makes an appearance once a month at la Barbecue at an after hours Summer Camp, accompanying other stoner food like the Sloppy Hoe and 420 Nachos.
On the other end of the spectrum is their Supper Club. Meant to be a more upscale experience, this members-only gathering is held monthly and allows Mueller to show off some of her other culinary skills.
“Supper Club is actually the opposite of Summer Camp,” Mueller said. “It’s where I really get to play with food. It’s meant to be an intimate dining experience.”
They cite time spent in lockdown as the inspiration for Supper Club’s menu, with the couple stuck at home trying out all sorts of new recipes. Now those creations can make their way into the world.
“In 2020, LeAnn cooked a lot at the house,” Clem said. “She created so many recipes. It’s really nice that she can allow people to taste that.”
Like many other eateries around town, la Barbecue added a store within a store during the last year, opening a little deli – appropriately named la Deli – that sells fresh and dry goods to the public. Items like house-cured bacon and even caviar are available for purchase. More change is on the horizon.
“Right now we’re putting gravel in the back area, and a friend of ours is doing a truck with ice cream sandwiches, Margarita [Kallas-Lee] that does Sushi Bar ATX,” Muller said.
la Barbecue also now has a liquor license, and even had a beer made for them by Zilker Brewing named – naturally – la Beer.
“My dad used to drink Budweisers, and we wanted to do an American pilsner in honor of my dad, and they were nice enough to work with us,” Mueller said.
There was a time when barbecue in Texas could be boiled down to the Big Three, classic joints in Lockhart, Llano, and Taylor. Mueller brings this heritage home to Austin, but with many of the trappings of Austin in 2021. It’s the best of both worlds, and with their new digs, it looks like it’s here to stay.
la Barbecue will be featured at this weekend’s Austin Food + Wine Festival. See below for more info.
Austin Food + Wine Festival
The 2021 Austin Food + Wine Festival 2021 returns to Auditorium Shores Nov. 5-7. Bites from more than 50 participating Austin restaurants will be featured, along with marquee events like Tim Love’s Grillin’ & Chillin’ and the Rock Your Taco showdown. Tickets to the festival are sold out, but at press time, there were dinner series tickets still on sale for evenings at Lutie’s, Canje, and Salt & Time. See more info at austinfoodandwinefestival.com.
LeAnn Mueller and Fermín Núñez Team Up for Taste America Dinner
The James Beard Foundation’s Taste America supports independent restaurants across America. Their nationwide culinary series includes a Nov. 9 event, held at Suerte, with a multicourse dinner created by chefs Fermín Núñez of Suerte and LeAnn Mueller of la Barbecue. See the menu below; tickets available at jamesbeard.org/tasteamerica.
AMUSE BOUCHE Rabbit Hole Boxergrail Rye Whiskey with Chef LeAnn’s Housemade Pickle Juice with la Barbecue Brisket
APPETIZER Beef Tri-Tip–Kimchi Taco
ENTRÉE Smoked Beef Short Rib with Recado Negro, Black Beans, and Tortillas or (vegan alternative) Smoked Cauliflower with Mole Rojo and Almonds
DESSERT Frozen Chocolate Mousse
COCKTAIL Conejo Barbudo: Rabbit Hole Cavehill Bourbon Whiskey with Sweet Potato, Honey, Lime, Allspice, Falernum, and Bitters (Created by Suerte bar manager Patrick Wasetis)
This article appears in November 5 • 2021.