Enjoy the cooler weather and these happenings around the state in September.

Margaret Doughty and Edith Gower worked tirelessly to save the historic Luther Hotel in Palacios. All their hard work paid off when preservationists J.P. and Mary Jon Bryan announced they would purchase the bayside hotel from the family heirs. Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

The Gage Hotel moves to Palacios. Well, not exactly, but the folks responsible for the preservation and the renovation of the Gage Hotel in Marathon have agreed to purchase and rehabilitate the historic Luther Hotel in Palacios. J.P. Bryan and his wife, Mary Jon, also restored the Galveston Orphans Home and turned it into The Bryan Museum to house their extensive collection of Texas and Western art and artifacts. Bryan built his fortune in the Houston energy sector. The Palacios Preservation Association announced on Aug. 20 that the deal has finally gone through. The old hotel was saved from demolition by Edith Gower, Margaret Doughty, and a slew of volunteers who persevered through legal battles, sweltering days cleaning up the neglected property, and hours spent on the phone ginning up support. Watch social media for an announcement about a grand celebration at the hotel to honor its rich history and promising future, a sale of excess hotel furnishings, and a tribute to Jack Findley, the previous owner of the landmark hotel.

For nearly 125 years the French Co. Grocer has occupied an adobe building on Avenue D a block off US90 in Marathon. The current owner of the only grocery store in town has lost his lease and is going to have to move; you can help. Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

Fun with food. Often called the “Gateway to Big Bend,” Marathon, population 275, punches above its weight in the category of cool attractions. There is the historic Gage Hotel with its very cool addition of motel-style rooms, and the adjacent White Buffalo Bar is an oasis in the desert. Down the street, the Brick Vault Brewery and BBQ seems to feed lunch to more law enforcement officers than any other eatery along this stretch of US90, and who better to identify a good place to dine. But the best reason to detour off the highway east of Alpine is to drop into the French Co. Grocer for last-minute supplies before heading into Big Bend National Park or just to browse their selection of local art, wines, beers, and foods. For local residents it is a lifeline to fresh vegetables and the only store in 30 miles that accepts EBT (aka food stamps). The little store opened in 1900 as W.M. French General Merchandise. Over the last 124 years the store has gone through several owners. Sam Stavinoha, former river guide and Austin resident, currently owns the grocery store. Unfortunately, his five-year lease on the building is coming to an end and won’t be renewed. Sam has selected a new location in town (a secret for now), but he needs our help to bear the heavy expenses of the move. You can help by participating in a fundraising auction or by donating to the GoFundMe account at savethefrenchgrocer.com. Or just stop by and purchase an espresso or attend the John Prine Appreciation Night coming up on Oct. 12. If you’re in the area on a Friday night, stop by for the Far West Texas Cattle Co. Burger Night.
Oct. 12, John Prine Appreciation Night, Marathon, 432/386-4522, frenchcogrocer.com

Travel Notes:

Growing pains. The Texas Department of Transportation (TxDOT) has plans to widen TX361 connecting Corpus Christi to Port Aransas from Park Road 22 to Beach Access Road 1. Unfortunately, construction will not begin for at least six years. TxDOT’s TX361 project proposes to widen the roadway to four lanes with two travel lanes in each direction, a raised center median, left-turn lanes as needed, and a sidewalk/shared use path. A public meeting with a virtual option is set for Sept. 19 at 4:30pm at Island in the Son Methodist Church, 10650 TX361 in Port Aransas. With the explosive population growth on the island, traffic crashes and deaths have also increased on that section of the two-lane highway. In 2023, 40 crashes claimed three lives on the highway known as Island Road. From January of this year through June 25, there had been 14 crashes and one fatality, according to DPS. Local police, DPS, and the sheriff’s department have stepped up patrols along the highway to try to stem the number of fatal crashes.

Marfa Music. The Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love, an annual festival held in Marfa, is on hiatus this year. But a new event, the Flying Island Music Festival, is stepping up to fill the void with food pop-ups and an eclectic mix of music. The four-day festival will take place from Thursday, Oct. 24, to Sunday, Oct. 27, at venues around town. Tickets to all four days of music are $100; single-day tickets are $50.

Other September Events:

Jump to a region: Big Bend | Gulf Coast | Hill Country | Panhandle | Piney Woods | Prairies & Lakes | South Texas | Out of State

BIG BEND

Post office mural in Pleasant Hill, Mo., by Tom Lea. Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

Tom Lea and Contemporaries
El Paso native Tom Lea (1907-2001) was a muralist, war correspondent, illustrator, historian, and novelist who helped nurture a creative community in the Southwest. This exhibit is an intriguing study of his work and how it relates to work of other artists of his era.
Sept. 4-Jan. 26, El Paso, epma.art/art

Tall City Blues Fest
Enjoy an evening of the blues headlined by harmonic virtuoso Brandon Santini outdoors in the Old Lumberyard.
Sept. 21, Midland, tallcitybluesfest.com

GULF COAST

Xtreme Hummingbird Xtravaganza. Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

Xtreme Hummingbird Xtravaganza
There will be plenty of hummingbirds in attendance as they prepare to migrate to South America, along with food and vendors and nature-themed booths.
Sept. 14, 21, Lake Jackson, www.gcbo.org

Hummingbird Celebration
The fascinating little birds are congregating along the Gulf Coast as they prepare for their southern migration. Come learn all about the birds through tours, lectures, and vendors.
Sept. 19-22, Rockport, www.rockport-fulton.org/HB

Greater Houston Soap Box Derby Family Fun Day
Kids and adults try their hand racing motorless cars down the hill at the Hockley Derby Park and then participate in the Zero Gravity Race.
Sept. 21, Houston, www.ghsbd.org

Galveston AIA Sandcastle Festival
The popular annual competition of Houston architects building sandcastles on the beach has a new name and has expanded to include more family-friendly activities, music, and vendors at East Beach in Galveston. Doors open at 10am both days. Sandcastle building begins at 10am on Saturday and concludes at 3pm, with AIA’s sandcastle contest winners announced around 5pm.
Sept. 21-22, Galveston, www.visitgalveston.com/events/annual-events/aia-sandcastle-competition

Houston Bird Week
A celebration of the important role Houston plays in the journey of billions of migratory birds and the everyday lives of our resident birds. Houston Audubon and local conservation partners arrange a week of virtual and in-person events centered around the region’s birds and wildlife.
Sept. 21-28, Houston, houstonaudubon.org/birdweek

Czech Heritage Festival
Texas wouldn’t be Texas without the Czech immigrants who tamed the Gulf Coast prairies. This festival celebrates all things Czech, from music to food and much more.
Sept. 22, Victoria, www.victoriaczechs.org

David Best Houston Temple
Weekly public viewing of the immense “temple” created from elaborately patterned salvaged wood. Constructed all over the globe (including many of the world-famous Burning Man festivals), these monumental public art projects are nondenominational sacred spaces that allow communities to express their deepest emotions: love, grief, joy, sorrow, celebration, and remembrance.
Sept. 5, 12, 19, 26, Houston, www.full.orangeshow.org/davidbest

Port A Live Music Fest
The island city comes alive with music at 15 concerts in five venues around the island.
Sept. 27-28, Port Aransas, www.portamusicfest.com

Surfing contest at Horace Caldwell Pier in Port Aransas. Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

Port A Surf Contest
The annual competition open to all ages takes place at the Horace Caldwell Pier and features a dog surfing contest.
Sept. 28, Port Aransas, portaransasmuseum.org/product/2024-surf-fest-registration

HILL COUNTRY

Friends of the Pioneer Memorial Library Book Sale
The library’s annual fundraiser offers a variety of genres of publications at reasonable prices at Marktplatz Pavilion.
Sept. 7, Fredericksburg, www.fbgtx.org

SnakeFessst!
It’s a free festival to introduce everyone to our reptilian neighbors at San Marcos’ Discovery Center.
Sept. 14, San Marcos, sanmarcostx.gov

Celebrating a Classic Chicano Film
The film …and the earth did not swallow him, based on Tomás Rivera’s autobiographical novel, follows a South Texas family of migrant farmworkers in the 1950s. To celebrate its 30th anniversary, the Wittliff Collections reunites writer/director Severo Perez with co-stars Rose Portillo and Marco Rodríguez (pending availability) in a conversation about the making of the film. Free and open to the public.
Sept. 19, San Marcos, www.thewittliffcollections.txst.edu/events.html

Bandera Brewery Beerfest
Try the local brews while enjoying the games and music and special activities for the kids. Well-behaved dogs welcome.
Sept. 19-22, Bandera, www.banderabrewery.com/banderabeerfest

Buda Arts Festival
Local artists show and sell their work along with music, film, dance, and kids’ activities.
Sept. 21, Buda, www.inspiredminds.art/budartsfestival

Castell General Store. Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

CockARoo Music Fest
Enjoy an end-of-summer party with plenty of music and food at the bright yellow store on the Llano River from 11am to 5pm.
Sept. 21, Castell, www.facebook.com/groups/142869584063

Comal County Fair and Rodeo
It’s a classic county fair with all the trimmings from livestock shows to carnival and a rodeo in between.
Sept. 25-29, New Braunfels, www.comalcountyfair.org

Texas Music Fest
Jason Boland, Bri Bagwell, and Jamie Richards headline a weekend of music on the banks of the Llano River.
Sept. 27-28, Llano, www.llanotexasmusicfestival.com

Oatmeal Festival
The ghost town of Oatmeal lends its name to a day of parades, washer tournaments, baking contests, and music.
Sept. 28, Bertram, oatmealfestival.org

Uhland Fall Festival
Formerly the Dripping Springs Pumpkin Festival, this family-friendly weekend event has something for everybody. There are games and activities for the kids, an artisan market, food trucks, and 30 musical acts.
Sept. 28-Oct. 27, Uhland, uhlandfallfest.com

PANHANDLE

Happy birthday, Buddy. Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

Buddy’s Birthday Bash
Sept. 7, Lubbock, ci.lubbock.tx.us/departments/buddy-holly-center/events

Hoodoo Mural Festival
Take a tour of the downtown murals and watch a new one being painted as the music plays.
Sept. 28, Amarillo, www.hoodoomural.com

PINEY WOODS

Tyler Film Festival
Held in the beautiful 1930 Liberty Hall Theatre, this festival has international reach with a special emphasis on local short films with many filmmakers and cast in attendance for Q&A sessions.
Sept. 12-14, Tyler, www.tylerfilmfest.com

Texas Forest Festival
An East Texas tradition celebrating all things wood with lumberjack competitions, wood carvers, carnival rides, and more.
Sept. 19-22, Lufkin, www.texasstateforestfestival.com

PRAIRIES AND LAKES

GrapeFest
If you enjoy wine, this is the place to be. Wineries from around the world with a special emphasis on Texas vintages will be on-site. There are also non-alcoholic events for the kids and plenty of opportunities for the shopaholics.
Sept. 12-15, Grapevine, www.grapevinetexasusa.com/grapefest

Kolache Festival
Admission is free and you’ll enjoy lots of attractions and homemade kolaches as well as arts and crafts and food booths, a quilt show, museums, street rods & classic car show, antique machinery and tractor show, and kids’ activity zone.
Sept. 14, Caldwell, www.burlesoncountytx.com/kolache-fest

Washington County Fair
Begun in 1858, making this the oldest county fair in Texas, it continues to have all the usual fair events from a rodeo to a carnival and lots of fair food.
Sept. 14-21, Brenham, www.washingtoncofair.com

Hot air balloon festival Credit: Gerald E. McLeod

Plano Balloon Festival
It started as a publicity stunt by a local real estate agent and has grown into a weekend of fun for the whole family.
Sept. 19-22, Plano, www.planoballoonfest.org

Texas Wendish Fest
An ethnic group from Eastern Germany, the Wends settled in 1855 in Lee County south of Giddings, where they prospered as farmers. The annual festival celebrates Wendish history and culture through folklife exhibits, unique cultural activities, delicious food, demonstrations, and live music.
Sept. 22, Serbin, www.texaswendish.org

Music on the Colorado River at Bastrop Music Festival Credit: Photo courtesy Bastrop Music Festival

Bastrop Music Festival
Downtown will be alive with music as several venues sponsor bands and performers.
Sept 26-29, Bastrop, www.bastropmusicfestival.com

Texas Word Wrangler Book Festival
Texas authors will be on hand to sell and sign their works to benefit the local library.
Sept. 27-28, Giddings, www.giddingspubliclibrary.org/word-wrangler

State Fair of Texas
Big Tex greets fairgoers for the fair’s 138th year as one of the biggest parties in the state with this year’s crazy food winners such as Cotton Candy Bacon on a Stick and Texas Sugar Rush Pickles.
Sept. 27-Oct. 20, Dallas, www.bigtex.com

SOUTH TEXAS

South Texas International Film Festival
STXIFF showcases local, regional, national, and international films and prides itself as a welcoming hub for thriving and aspiring storytellers.
Sept. 11-14, Edinburg, www.stxiff.com

Water Lantern Festival
Write a message on your lantern and set it free at Miller Pond Park while enjoying the numerous food trucks and music. Discount tickets available through Sept. 20.
Sept. 28, San Antonio, www.waterlanternfestival.com/sanantonio.php

OUT OF STATE

Las Cruces Space Festival

Las Cruces Space Festival
Just 46 miles north of El Paso, the second-largest city in New Mexico hosts all things space-related including astronauts and an open house at Spaceport America. There’s a lot to do in the southeast corner of the state, like visiting White Sands National Park, tasting the wines of the oldest wine-producing region in the country, and sampling the different variations of the green chile burgers.
Sept. 8-14, Las Cruces, N.M., www.lcspacefestival.com

Louisiana Food and Wine Festival
There might not be a better chance to sample all that Southwest Louisiana has to offer in food, wine, and, of course, music. It’s a crash course in laissez les bons temps rouler.
Sept. 19-22, Lake Charles, louisianafoodandwinefestival.com


Gerald McLeod has been traveling around Texas and beyond for his “Day Trips” column for more than 25 years. Keep up to date with his journeys on his archive page and follow him on Facebook.

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Gerald E. McLeod joined the Chronicle staff in November 1980 as a graphic designer. In April 1991 he began writing the “Day Trips” column. Besides the weekly travel column, he contributed “101 Swimming Holes,” “Guide to Central Texas Barbecue,” and “Guide to the Texas Hill Country.” His first 200 columns have been published in Day Trips Vol. I and Day Trips Vol. II.