Bar Review: Las Bis

Las Bis, meaning "encore," has a very specific identity: A large, beautiful patio bar set eight floors above Congress Avenue, it's an upscale, vibey destination that's perfect for kicking off a night of theatre or just celebrating the end of the work week.

Las Bis offers seven craft cocktails, a half-dozen beers, and a variety of natural wines by the glass, a style for every mood and palate. For me the place screams cider, because both the light, snacky, fish- and mollusk-centric menu and that patio demand a crushable beverage. Fittingly, they serve Austin's very own Fairweather Cider Co.'s Smell the Van, a dry Spanish-style cider infused with gin botanicals. It always hits, especially as the sun sets while you're seated on a bespoke outdoor barstool, made of the same material as wine corks, looking west.

The warm marinated olives and goat cheese spread is substantial and satisfying, and great for sharing; the briny, spicy, citrusy olives were my favorite part. The crisp Sportsball Pilsner from local brewery Friends & Allies went well with the creamy goat cheese and subtly spicy olives.

The octopus salad was spot-on, with tender tendrils of mollusk resting atop velvety aioli with crisp fresh celery, Italian flat-leaf parsley, and good Spanish olive oil. It's a fairly conservative portion for the dough, but if you're coming to Las Bis and looking at the price tag, you shouldn't be in the dealership.

If you really want to ball out, there are market-priced caviar setups (potato chips, chives, capers, boiled egg, and crème fraîche), or you could go with one of the many assorted, brightly packaged tinned fish offerings on the shelves, including Fishwife smoked Atlantic salmon and José Gourmet Baltic sea sprats.

There don't seem to be waitstaff at Las Bis, which means you have to order at the bar. There's a lot going on there, so, just like at any other busy bar, sometimes you're going to have to wait for service. Plan your pace accordingly, relax, and enjoy the view.

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Las Bis

712 Congress, 737/257-1234
Mon.-Thu., 4pm-12mid (food stops at 10pm); Fri.-Sat., 11am-12mid; Sun., noon-12mid
lasbisbar.com